Complete Guide to Chrysler Sebring Rear Suspension Parts Names

If you are diagnosing a rear suspension issue on a Chrysler Sebring (model years 1995 through 2010), knowing the correct part names is essential for ordering replacements or discussing repairs with a mechanic. The rear suspension on the Sebring uses a multi-link or trailing arm design depending on the generation. This guide covers all major rear suspension components, their common failure points, and practical tips for replacement.

Rear Suspension System Overview

The Chrysler Sebring has undergone three generations: first generation (1995–2000), second generation (2001–2006), and third generation (2007–2010) for sedans and convertibles. The rear suspension setup changed over the years. The first and second generations use a trailing arm with a twist beam axle on some trims, while the third generation uses a multi-link independent suspension. Knowing your specific year and trim helps ensure you get the correct parts.

Key Rear Suspension Parts and Their Names

Control Arms

Control arms connect the wheel hub to the vehicle frame. On the third-generation Sebring, there are both upper and lower control arms in the rear. The lower control arm is commonly referred to as the rear lower control arm or rear lateral link. The upper control arm is often called the rear upper control arm or rear camber link. These arms allow up and down wheel movement while maintaining proper alignment.

Trailing Arms

Front and rear trailing arms are used on earlier models. They run longitudinally from the chassis to the axle. The trailing arm is sometimes called a rear trailing arm or a longitudinal arm. On some trims, it integrates the spring seat. Bushings at the pivot points wear over time.

Struts and Shock Absorbers

Rear struts are a common replacement item. On many Sebring models, the rear strut is a combined coil-over unit. The part names include: rear strut assembly, rear shock absorber, or rear coil-over strut. For models with separate springs, the shock is called a rear shock absorber. Struts typically include a mounting plate, coil spring, and damping cartridge.

Coil Springs

Coil springs support the vehicle's weight. They are often sold separately from struts. Part names: rear coil spring, rear spring, or rear suspension spring. They come in standard and heavy-duty options. Sagging springs cause a low ride height and poor handling.

Sway Bar (Stabilizer Bar)

The rear sway bar reduces body roll during cornering. It attaches to the control arms via links. Part names: rear sway bar, rear stabilizer bar, rear anti-roll bar. The bar itself is a metal rod, and the connecting links are called rear sway bar links, rear stabilizer links, or drop links.

Bushings

Bushings are rubber or polyurethane cushions that absorb vibration and allow pivoting. Common bushing locations include:

• Control arm bushings (both upper and lower)
• Trailing arm bushings
• Sway bar bushings (where the bar mounts to the frame)
• Strut mount bushings (at the top mounting point) Part names: rear control arm bushing, rear trailing arm bushing, rear sway bar bushing, strut mount.

Knuckle and Hub Assembly

The rear knuckle (also called the rear spindle or rear upright) holds the wheel bearing and hub. The hub with bearing is often sold as a rear hub assembly or rear wheel bearing hub. This part includes the wheel studs and mounting flange.

Other Components

• Rear tension strut: Some models use a tension strut that connects the lower control arm to the frame.
• Rear toe link: On multi-link setups, a toe link controls rear wheel toe angle.
• Rear spring insulator: A rubber pad that sits between the coil spring and its seat.

Common Wear Symptoms

• Clunking noises from the rear when going over bumps indicate worn control arm bushings or sway bar links.
• Loose or wandering rear end: often worn trailing arm bushings or control arm ball joints.
• Uneven tire wear: caused by bad camber or toe due to worn suspension components.
• Excessive body roll: sway bar bushings or links may be failing.
• Leaking fluid from the strut: means the shock absorber is done.

Replacement Tips

• Always replace suspension components in pairs (both sides) to maintain balanced handling.
• Use an alignment after replacing any control arm, knuckle, or tie rod.
• When replacing struts, consider replacing the strut mounts and bump stops at the same time.
• Bushings often require a press for removal; some aftermarket arms come with pre-installed bushings.
• For trailing arm assemblies, you can buy a complete arm with bushings and ball joint if installed.
• Torque all bolts to factory specifications while the suspension is under load (tires on the ground or with a jack supporting the control arm).

Final Recommendation

If you are ordering replacement parts, always use the make, model, year, and engine size to filter. A reliable parts supplier will ask for that information. For DIY repairs, buy complete assemblies (like a loaded strut or fully assembled control arm) to save time. For professional repairs, confirm the exact part name with your mechanic. Keep a record of part numbers and names for future reference. Regular inspection of rear suspension components every 50,000 miles can prevent more expensive damage.