Ultimate Guide to 1967 Pontiac Firebird Suspension Parts: Restoration & Upgrades

The 1967 Pontiac Firebird, in its debut year, came with a suspension system that was competent for its time but may feel dated by modern standards. Whether you're restoring a numbers-matching example or building a pro-touring cruiser, understanding the suspension parts is critical. This guide covers the key components, upgrade options, and considerations for your 1967 Firebird.

Front Suspension Components

The first-generation Firebird uses a unique front subframe that is shared with the Camaro but with Pontiac-specific geometry. Key parts include control arms, springs, shocks, and steering components.

Upper and Lower Control Arms

Factory control arms are stamped steel and use rubber bushings that deteriorate over time. For stock restoration, reproduction arms with rubber bushings are available. For improved handling, aftermarket tubular control arms (from brands like Hotchkis, Ridetech, or Global West) offer stronger construction and use polyurethane or spherical bearings. They also allow for more precise alignment settings.

Coil Springs

Original springs are rated by sag and can be replaced with OEM-style replacements from Moog or Dorman. For a lower stance or better cornering, variable-rate or progressive-rate springs are popular. Eibach and QA1 offer springs that reduce ride height by 1-2 inches while maintaining acceptable ride quality.

Shocks and Struts

The front suspension uses twin-tube shocks similar to the rear. For stock feel, AC Delco or Gabriel shocks work fine. For performance, gas-charged shocks like Bilstein or Koni provide better damping. If you're adding lowering springs, consider shocks with adjustable damping.

Steering Linkage

The 1967 Firebird uses a recirculating ball steering box. The tie rods, center link, and idler arm should be inspected. Moog and Lares offer quality replacement parts. Upgrading to a faster ratio steering box (e.g., 12.7:1) can improve turn-in response. Convert to power steering if not already equipped.

Sway Bars

The front sway bar is usually 13/16 inch on standard models and 1 inch on the 400/350HO. Upgrading to a thicker bar (1 1/4 or 1 3/8) reduces body roll. Aftermarket bars come with polyurethane bushings. Energy Suspension offers bushing kits.

Rear Suspension Components

The '67 Firebird uses a solid rear axle with leaf springs and staggered shocks (left forward, right rearward). The rear suspension is the most common area for upgrades.

Leaf Springs

Factory multi-leaf springs sag over time. Replacement OEM-style springs are available from Eaton Detroit Spring. For better handling, consider replacing with composite leaf springs (e.g., Flex-Form) or adding a rear anti-roll bar. Lowering blocks can drop the rear 1-2 inches.

Rear Shocks

Stock shocks are non-adjustable. Gas shocks like Bilstein or KYB improve axle control. If you've lowered the car, make sure to get shocks with appropriate extended length.

Traction Bars

Factory rear suspension lacks pinion angle control. Traction bars (also called slapper bars or ladder bars) reduce wheelhop during acceleration. CalTracs by Calvert Racing are a common upgrade that also helps launch traction.

Rear Sway Bar

The 1967 Firebird did not come with a rear sway bar from the factory. Adding one from aftermarket suppliers like Addco or Hotchkis significantly reduces understeer. Install with polyurethane bushings.

Differential Gears

The suspension itself doesn't include gears, but upgrading to a limited-slip differential (e.g., Posi) with 3.55 or 3.73 gears improves acceleration. The original 10-bolt axle can handle moderate power.

Steering and Alignment Considerations

Power Steering vs Manual Steering

Manual steering is heavy but gives feedback. Power steering from a 1967-68 GM car can be retrofitted. Use a quick-ratio gearbox for better response.

Alignment Specs

Stock alignment specs are conservative. For street performance, use: 0.5-1.0 degree negative camber, 3-5 degrees caster, and 1/8th inch toe-in. Aftermarket control arms allow more adjustment range.

Upgrade Paths: Restoration vs Performance

Restoration: Stick with rubber bushings, OEM springs, and standard shocks. Use parts from The Filling Station, OPGI, or National Parts Depot. Avoid polyurethane if you want stock ride comfort.

Street Performance: Tubular control arms, polyurethane bushings, lowering springs (1 inch drop), gas shocks, and both sway bars. This setup improves handling without being harsh.

Pro-Touring / Track: Coilover conversion kits (like Ridetech or QA1) for front, rear control arm relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard bar. Expect a stiffer ride.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Don't mix different brand springs front and rear; match rates.
• Don't install lowering springs without checking shock travel.
• Don't overtighten polyurethane bushings; they need to be snug, not compressed.
• Don't neglect steering box adjustment – loosen the worm shaft preload if turning is stiff.

Final Recommendation

For most 1967 Firebird owners, a balanced street performance upgrade delivers the best improvement without breaking the bank. Start with a new set of shocks (Bilstein B6 or Koni Str.t), replace all rubber control arm bushings with polyurethane, upgrade the front sway bar to 1 1/4 inches, and add a rear sway bar. Consider a 1-inch drop spring kit from Eibach or Moog. This combination retains daily drivability while making the car feel much more planted. For budget-minded projects, a complete suspension rebuild kit (ball joints, tie rods, bushings) from Moog is a solid foundation. Remember to get a professional alignment after any suspension work.