1968 Ford 250 Leaf Spring Suspension Parts: Complete Guide

The 1968 Ford F-250 is a classic workhorse, and its leaf spring suspension is central to its durability and ride quality. Whether you're restoring a truck, replacing worn components, or upgrading for better load handling, understanding the leaf spring suspension parts specific to this model is essential. This guide covers the key parts, what to look for when buying replacements, and practical advice for installation and maintenance.

Understanding the 1968 Ford F-250 Leaf Spring Suspension

The 1968 F-250 was built to handle heavy loads, and its rear leaf spring setup is the backbone of that capability. The suspension uses a multi-leaf design with a main leaf and several secondary leaves, providing both strength and a degree of flexibility. The front suspension also uses leaf springs on this model (the F-250 4x2 and 4x4 variants differ slightly, but both rely on leaf springs). Key components include the leaf spring itself, spring bushings, shackles, U-bolts, and mounting plates.

Front vs. Rear Leaf Spring Systems

• Front suspension: The 1968 F-250 front leaf springs are typically shorter and have a different arch and spring rate compared to the rear. They work with I-beam axles on 2WD models or a solid axle on 4WD versions.
• Rear suspension: Rear leaf springs are longer, with more leaves to support heavy payloads. They mount to the frame via a fixed eye at the front and a shackle at the rear, allowing the spring to flex as the axle moves.

Common Leaf Spring Suspension Parts for the 1968 F-250

When sourcing parts for the 1968 F-250 leaf spring suspension, you'll encounter several components that may need replacement due to age, wear, or corrosion.

Leaf Spring Assemblies

The leaf spring pack is the main component. Over time, springs can sag, crack, or lose their arch. Replacement springs are available as complete assemblies or as individual leaves. For the 1968 F-250, OEM-style springs are typically 2.5 inches wide. Spring rates vary: standard duty, heavy duty, and extra-heavy duty are common options. If you frequently haul heavy loads, heavy-duty springs (with more leaves or thicker steel) can prevent sagging.

Spring Bushings

Bushings are pressed into the spring eyes and shackle ends. They isolate noise and vibration and allow the spring to pivot. On the 1968 F-250, the bushings are usually rubber or polyurethane. Rubber bushings are softer and quieter but wear faster. Polyurethane bushings last longer and improve handling but can transmit more road noise. Many restorers prefer polyurethane for longevity, especially if the truck sees occasional heavy use.

Shackles and Hangers

Shackles connect the rear of the leaf spring to the frame. They consist of a metal link with bushing sleeves. Hangers are the brackets that mount to the frame and hold the front eye of the spring and the rear shackle. These parts can rust or crack. Replacement shackles and hangers are typically made of stamped steel or heavy-duty cast steel. Ensure you get the correct offset and width for the 1968 F-250.

U-Bolts and Plates

U-bolts wrap around the axle and clamp the leaf spring pack to the axle pad. They are critical for keeping the axle securely in place. The 1968 F-250 uses U-bolts with a specific thread size and length. Always replace U-bolts when changing springs, as they can stretch over time. The lower plates (also called spring plates) distribute the clamping force. Some aftermarket kits include heavy-duty plates with extra reinforcement.

Center Bolts and Clips

The center bolt holds the leaf pack together and positions it on the axle. If you reuse old springs, check the center bolt for damage. Spring clips (or leaf clamps) hold the leaves together laterally. Loose clips can cause leaf separation. Replace these if they are missing or broken.

How to Choose Quality Leaf Spring Parts

When shopping for 1968 Ford F-250 leaf spring suspension parts, quality matters. Here are specific factors to consider:

Material and Construction

• Spring steel: Look for springs made from SAE 5160 or similar high-strength alloy steel. This resists fatigue and sagging.
• Coating: Many modern springs have a powder-coated or painted finish for rust resistance. Some are coated with a rubberized undercoating for extra protection.
• Bushings: polyurethane bushings are durable but require grease for squeak prevention. If you want a quiet ride, rubber may be better.

Matching Original Specifications

The 1968 F-250 had different spring configurations depending on GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). Check your truck's axle code or spring chart to determine the original spring rate (typically measured in pounds per inch or load capacity). You can find this info in a factory service manual or from suppliers that list parts by vehicle weight class.

Brand Reputation

Stick with well-known suspension brands that specialize in classic trucks, such as Moog, Dorman, or Skyjacker for aftermarket. Many restoration suppliers (like LMC Truck, Dennis Carpenter, or National Parts Depot) offer OEM-style parts. Avoid unbranded or very cheap springs, as they may sag quickly.

Installation Tips for Leaf Spring Suspension Parts

Replacing leaf springs on a 1968 F-250 is a job that requires basic mechanical skills, a floor jack, jack stands, and a torque wrench. Here are practical steps and cautions:

1. Safety first: The springs are under tension. Use jack stands to support the frame and a separate jack to support the axle. Never work under a truck supported only by a jack.
2. Remove the old springs: Unbolt the U-bolts, shackles, and front bolt. You may need a penetrating oil for rusted fasteners.
3. Compare new springs: Before installing, lay the new spring next to the old one to check arch height and leaf count. If the new spring has more leaves, you may need longer U-bolts.
4. Install bushings: Press or tap new bushings into the spring eyes before mounting. Lubricate polyurethane bushings with silicone grease.
5. Tighten bolts with weight on suspension: When reinstalling, tighten the shackle and spring eye bolts only after the truck is lowered to the ground and the suspension is compressed. This prevents binding and premature bushing wear. Torque to factory specs (usually around 100-150 ft-lbs for U-bolts, 70-90 ft-lbs for shackle bolts).
6. Check alignment: After installation, the axle should be centered in the wheel well. Misalignment can indicate wrong spring dimensions or worn parts.

Maintenance and Upgrades

Regular inspection can extend the life of your leaf spring suspension. Look for broken leaves, cracks, and loose U-bolts. Grease polyurethane bushings every year. If you use the truck for heavy hauling, consider adding helper springs (like air bags or overload leafs) to reduce spring fatigue.

For off-road use or improved ride comfort, some owners swap to leaf springs with a higher arch and softer rate, combined with shock absorbers. However, any lift over 2 inches may require a dropped pitman arm and extended brake lines.

Final Recommendation

For most 1968 Ford F-250 owners, replacing sagging leaf springs with a heavy-duty or OEM-equivalent set from a reputable brand is the best move. Budget around $200-$400 per spring pack (front or rear) for quality parts. Pair them with polyurethane bushings and new U-bolts. If you plan to carry heavy loads regularly, opt for the heavy-duty option. For a stock restoration, stick with original spring rates. Avoid the cheapest options; they will likely sag within a year. A well-chosen leaf spring suspension will restore your F-250's ride and payload capacity for years to come.