1968 Porsche Body Parts: A Comprehensive Guide for Restoration

Restoring a 1968 Porsche is a rewarding project, but finding the right body parts can be challenging. Whether you're working on a 911, 912, or another model from that year, understanding the options and sourcing quality components is essential. This guide covers the most common body panels, materials, and practical advice for your restoration.

Common Body Parts for the 1968 Porsche 911

The 1968 model year is part of the long-hood era (1965–1973), and many body parts are shared across those years, but there are specific differences. Key panels include:

Front Fenders – Original 1968 fenders have a distinct shape around the headlights and turn signals. Aftermarket options are available in both steel and fiberglass. Steel is heavier but more original; fiberglass reduces weight and is easier to repair.

Rear Quarter Panels – These are often rust-prone areas. Full quarter panels or replacement sections are sold by specialist suppliers. Be aware that left and right sides are not interchangeable.

Doors – New steel doors are available, but used original doors are common. Check for rust at the bottom edge and around the hinges. Aftermarket fiberglass doors are lighter but may require fitting adjustments.

Hood and Deck Lid – The 1968 hood has a specific latch location and wiper nozzles. Deck lids for early 911s are similar, but the rear grille design changed over time. Both steel and fiberglass options exist.

Floor Pans and Chassis – Rust in the floor pans is a major issue. Full replacement pans are sold by several suppliers. Also inspect the longitudinal members and suspension mounting points.

Original Steel vs. Aftermarket Fiberglass

One of the biggest decisions in a 1968 Porsche restoration is whether to use original steel or aftermarket fiberglass body parts. Each has pros and cons.

Steel – Original steel parts offer authenticity and better fitment, but they are expensive and can be hard to find in good condition. Reproduction steel panels are available from quality manufacturers but may require more bodywork to fit correctly. Steel is also heavier, which can affect handling.

Fiberglass – Fiberglass panels are lighter, resistant to rust, and often cheaper. However, they can be more difficult to paint and may not match the original body lines perfectly. Fiberglass is also more prone to cracking under stress unless reinforced. Many race-oriented restorations use fiberglass for weight savings.

Recommendation: For a street-driven car that you want to keep original, stick with steel parts, preferably OEM or high-quality reproductions. For a track car or if budget is tight, fiberglass is a viable option.

Restoration Challenges for 1968 Porsche Body Parts

The 1968 model year has some unique challenges. Because these cars are over 50 years old, many have undergone previous repairs or modifications. Common issues include:

Rust – Check the battery tray, spare tire well, around the windshield, and behind the front bumper. Rust can hide under sound deadening material. Use a magnet to detect filler.

Fitment Variations – Aftermarket parts often require trimming, shimming, or welding to align properly. Original parts from different cars may also have slight variations. Plan for extra bodywork.

Part Number Differences – Porsche made running changes during the model year. Verify your car's VIN to ensure you order the correct parts. For example, the 1968 911 engine lid may differ from a 1969.

Availability – Some panels, like the front valance or specific trim pieces, are hard to find. NOS (New Old Stock) parts exist but are pricey. Consider using parts from later long-hood cars if they fit with minor modifications.

Tips for Sourcing Quality Body Parts

When buying 1968 Porsche body parts, focus on quality and fit. Here are practical tips:

• Test Fit Before Painting – Always dry-fit panels to check gaps. You may need to shim hinges or adjust mounting points.
• Buy from Specialized Suppliers – Companies like Stoddard, Pelican Parts, and Sierra Madre Collection offer reproduction steel panels with better fitment than generic brands.
• Check for Rust in Used Parts – Inspect used panels thoroughly. Surface rust can be cleaned, but deep pitting or perforations mean the part is unusable.
• Consider Shipping Costs – Large panels like doors and fenders are expensive to ship. Look for local suppliers or pick-up options.
• VIN Matching – If you want to keep the car numbers-matching, keep original panels even if they need repair. Aftermarket parts may not have the same stampings.

Final Recommendation

For a successful 1968 Porsche body restoration, plan your approach based on your goals. If authenticity is paramount, invest in original or high-quality reproduction steel parts. Your car's value will benefit from correct panel fit and finish. If you're building a driver or track car, fiberglass panels can save weight and money, but be prepared for additional fitting work. Always source from reputable suppliers and allow extra time for fitting and finishing. With careful planning, your 1968 Porsche can look and perform as it did when new.