The 1970 Porsche 911T is a beloved classic, representing a pivotal era in Porsche’s history. As the entry-level model of the 911 lineup that year, the 911T (Touring) offered a balance of performance and comfort. Today, owners and restorers face the challenge of sourcing reliable parts for maintenance, restoration, or upgrades. This guide covers the most critical 1970 Porsche 911T parts, where to find them, and what to consider when making purchasing decisions.
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Understanding the 1970 Porsche 911T
The 1970 model year was part of the first generation (1964-1973) of the 911. The 911T used a 2.2-liter flat-six engine producing 125 horsepower (SAE net) with Weber carburetors. It featured a four- or five-speed manual transmission, torsion bar suspension, and disc brakes. Knowing these specifics is crucial when ordering parts.
Engine Components
Carburetors and Fuel System
The 1970 911T originally came with Weber 40 IDA 3C carburetors. Over time, these may need rebuilding or replacement. Weber rebuild kits are widely available, but ensure you get the correct gasket set for 40 IDA models. For a simpler setup, some owners switch to modern fuel injection systems like the PMO or ITB setups, but these require significant modification. If you want to keep it original, stick with the Weber carburetors and source genuine Webers or high-quality rebuilds from suppliers like Pelican Parts or Stoddard.
Ignition System
The original Bosch distributor (0231 169 000 or 0231 169 001) and ignition points are common failure points. Replace points with a Pertronix electronic ignition for reliability while maintaining a stock appearance. Spark plugs should be NGK B6ES or Bosch equivalents. Also check ignition wires and coils; use Bosch blue coil or a modern equivalent.
Cooling and Exhaust
The 1970 911T engine is air-cooled, so the fan belt and cooling tin are critical. Check for cracks in the fan shroud. Exhaust systems rust easily; stock stainless steel replacements are available from Dansk or Bursch. Ensure the heat exchangers are functional if you need heater performance.
Transmission and Clutch
The 1970 911T used the 901 or 911 transmission (four-speed or five-speed). Parts like synchros, bearings, and seals are still available. For clutch kits, use Sachs or LuK with a stock-style pressure plate. The release bearing and pilot bearing should be replaced during a clutch job. Be cautious of aftermarket lightweight flywheels; they change driving character and may require different shifting techniques.
Suspension and Brakes
Front Suspension
The front end uses MacPherson struts with torsion bars. Ball joints and tie rod ends wear out; replace with Moog or Lemförder parts. The steering rack (originally ZF) can be rebuilt with seal kits. For bushings, polyurethane upgrades from Elephant Racing or Weltmeister offer improved feel without harshness.
Rear Suspension
The rear suspension is a semi-trailing arm design with torsion bars. Rubber bushings harden over time. Replace with OEM rubber or polyurethane. The rear sway bar is often missing; add one for better handling (stocks were 14mm or 16mm). Check trailing arm mounts for cracks.
Brakes
The 1970 911T had ATE disc brakes. Calipers are single-piston; rebuild kits are available. Rotors should be ATE or Brembo (solid or cross-drilled, but cross-drilled can crack under track use). Brake pads: semi-metallic for street use, but ceramic for less dust. Brake lines: upgrade to stainless steel braided for better pedal feel. The master cylinder is also prone to failure; use ATE replacement.
Body and Exterior
Sheet Metal
Rust is the biggest enemy. Panels like front fenders, rear quarter panels, and floor pans are available as reproduction from companies like Dansk, Klokkerholm, or Porsche Classic. Original Porsche panels are expensive but fit best. For small parts like hood hinges, latch cables, and seals, Stoddard and Pelican Parts stock them.
Lighting
Headlights are H4 conversions (original Bosch H4 or Hella). Taillights and turn signals are unique to 1970; replacement lenses are available in clear or amber. Ensure bulbs are correct wattage to avoid melting.
Glass and Trim
Windshield and rear glass are available from aftermarket suppliers like Pilkington. Rubber seals (windshield, door, quarter window) are crucial to prevent leaks. Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket (e.g., URO parts are lower quality, avoid for seals).
Interior Parts
Seats and Upholstery
Original seats were vinyl with houndstooth inserts (cloth) optional. Complete upholstery kits from Autos International or GAHH are near-perfect reproductions. If you want to maintain originality, choose the correct pattern and color code.
Dashboard and Gauges
The wooden dash veneer often cracks. Replacement veneer kits are available. Gauges (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, oil) can be rebuilt by specialists like Palo Alto Speedometer. Keep the VDO originals; quartz conversions exist for tachometer accuracy.
Carpets
Carpet sets in square weave or loop pile are available. Use original-style jute backing for sound deadening.
Electrical System
Wiring Harness
The original wiring is cloth-covered, which degrades. Replacement harnesses from companies like Yazaki or Porsche Classic are expensive but worthwhile. For specific sections (engine bay, front), custom harness makers like American Autowire can help.
Fuse Box and Relays
The fuse box is prone to corrosion. Replace with a modern blade-style fuse conversion (available from aftermarket). Use Bosch relays for headlights and fuel pump.
Where to Buy 1970 Porsche 911T Parts
- Specialty retailers: Pelican Parts, Stoddard, Porsche Classic, Sierra Madre Collection.
- Aftermarket brands: Dansk (exhaust and sheet metal), Elephant Racing (suspension), PMO (fuel injection).
- For hard-to-find parts: Porsche dismantlers (e.g., Parts Heaven, EASY). Use used parts if necessary but inspect for wear.
- Online forums (Pelican Parts, Early 911S Registry) have classifieds.
Practical Tips for Buying Parts
- Verify compatibility. The 1970 911T shares many parts with the 1970 911E and 911S, but always confirm. Use your VIN and part numbers.
- Prioritize original vs. reproduction. For structural or safety-critical parts, buy OEM or known quality aftermarket. For cosmetics, reproductions often suffice.
- Beware of cheap replicas. Parts from unknown manufacturers may not fit properly. Stick with established brands.
- Consider upgrades. If you drive your car regularly, consider improvements like larger brakes (from later models) or a stronger transmission. Keep reversible modifications if you want to preserve value.
Final Recommendation
For the 1970 Porsche 911T, focus on getting the basics right: engine ignition and carburetion, braking system, and suspension bushings. These areas dramatically affect drivability and safety. Use trusted suppliers and don't hesitate to ask for advice from the Early 911 community. If you want to preserve originality, stick with genuine Porsche or high-quality reproduction parts. For a driver that sees regular use, carefully selected upgrades can enhance reliability without destroying character. Always research before buying, as parts can vary in quality. With the right approach, your 1970 911T can remain a joy to own and drive for years to come.