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2007 Nissan Altima Suspension Part Change: A Practical Guide

BY CHEAPEUROPARTS EDITORIAL TEAM7 min read

Step-by-step guide for changing suspension parts on a 2007 Nissan Altima. Learn which parts wear, symptoms, tool list, and replacement tips.

If you own a 2007 Nissan Altima, sooner or later you'll need to replace some suspension components. The stock suspension is adequate for daily driving, but after ten to fifteen years, bushings, struts, and control arms can wear out. This article covers which parts commonly fail, the signs that indicate replacement is needed, and the general process for changing them. It's written for DIYers with intermediate mechanical skills. Follow along to save money and keep your Altima riding smoothly.

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Identifying Worn Suspension Parts on a 2007 Altima

The 2007 Altima uses MacPherson struts in the front and a multilink setup in the rear. Common wear items include:

  • Front struts and strut mounts – The strut bearings can seize, causing clunking when turning. Leaking fluid or bouncy ride means the strut is shot.
  • Front control arms and bushings – The lower control arm rearward bushing is a known weak point. Worn bushings cause steering wander and vibration.
  • Sway bar links (end links) – Plastic or metal links break, creating a rattling noise on bumps.
  • Rear shocks – The Altima has separate rear shocks (not struts). Leaking or weak shocks lead to a loose rear end.
  • Rear control arms and trailing arm bushings – These wear and cause clunking or rear alignment issues.

Signs That Your Suspension Needs Attention

  • Clunking or knocking over bumps – often from sway bar links or strut mounts.
  • Excessive body roll in corners – weak struts/shocks.
  • Uneven tire wear – can indicate worn bushings or alignment problems.
  • Steering wheel vibration at highway speeds – could be control arm bushings.
  • Nose dive under braking – front struts are worn.
  • Rear end feels loose or sways – rear shocks are failing.

Tools and Parts You'll Need

Before starting, gather these tools and parts. Quality matters, but you don't need pro-level equipment.

Tools

  • Jack and jack stands (4 stands recommended for full access)
  • Lug wrench or impact gun
  • Metric socket and wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
  • Breaker bar or long ratchet
  • Torque wrench (for tightening bolts to spec)
  • Ball joint separator or pickle fork
  • Strut spring compressor (for front strut replacement)
  • Pry bar
  • Hammer
  • Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster)
  • Safety glasses and gloves

Parts (for front and rear, depending on what you're changing)

  • Front strut assembly – Pre-assembled units (strut + spring + mount) are easier; or you can buy strut, spring, mount separately.
  • Rear shock absorber – OEM or aftermarket (KYB, Monroe, Bilstein are common).
  • Lower control arms – Often sold with ball joint and bushings pre-installed.
  • Sway bar links – Aftermarket metal links last longer than plastic.
  • Strut mounts – if not included in assembly.
  • Alignment adjustment bolts (if needed for rear camber)

Step-by-Step: Changing Front Struts on a 2007 Altima

The front strut replacement is the most involved. Here's a condensed process:

  1. Safety first – Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen lug nuts, jack up front, place jack stands under frame rails. Remove front wheels.
  2. Disconnect sway bar link – Remove the nut from the sway bar link end attached to the strut. You may need to hold the ball stud with an Allen wrench.
  3. Remove brake line and ABS wire – Unclip them from the strut housing. Do not stretch or kink the brake line. Set aside.
  4. Remove axle nut? – On some Altimas, you need to remove the axle nut and push the axle out of the hub to access the lower strut bolt. Check service manual. If you have AWD, it's different.
  5. Remove lower strut bolt – This is the bolt connecting the strut to the steering knuckle. Soak with penetrating oil. Use a breaker bar. Once loose, remove the bolt and separate the knuckle from the strut using a pry bar or ball joint separator.
  6. Remove top strut mount nuts – Under the hood, locate the three nuts on the strut tower. Hold the strut with one hand and remove them. Carefully lower the strut out.
  7. Disassemble old strut – Use a spring compressor to compress the spring. Keep the spring orientation noted. Remove the top nut, mount, bearing, and spring. Transfer parts to new strut if using a bare unit. If using a pre-assembled strut, skip this.
  8. Install new strut – Place the new assembly into the vehicle. Hand-tighten the top mount nuts. Install the lower bolt and tighten loosely. Reattach sway bar link and brake line.
  9. Torque to spec – Lower the car to the ground with weight on suspension. Then torque the lower strut bolt (around 80-100 ft-lbs), top nuts (around 25-35 ft-lbs), sway bar link nut (30-40 ft-lbs), and lug nuts.
  10. Repeat on other side – Always replace suspension parts in pairs to maintain even handling.

Step-by-Step: Changing Rear Shocks on a 2007 Altima

Rear shocks are simpler:

  1. Access from trunk – Open trunk, remove trim panels covering the shock towers. There's an access cover. Remove it.
  2. Remove top nut – Use a socket and hold the shock shaft with a wrench to keep it from spinning.
  3. Raise the rear – Jack up the rear and place stands under the frame. Remove wheel(s).
  4. Remove lower bolt – At the lower control arm, remove the through-bolt that holds the shock.
  5. Remove old shock – Compress it if necessary, then pull out.
  6. Install new shock – Extend new shock, insert through bottom, install lower bolt loosely. Then top nut from inside trunk. Tighten both.
  7. Torque to spec – Lower vehicle and torque top nut (around 20 ft-lbs), lower bolt (around 50-70 ft-lbs).

Replacing Control Arms and Bushings

Control arms are often replaced as a unit. Here's the outline:

  • Front lower control arm: Remove sway bar link, ball joint castle nut, and ball joint from steering knuckle (use separator). Remove two bolts at the front and rear of the arm (rear bolt may be seized). Install new arm, tighten ball joint nut (with new cotter pin), and torque control arm bolts with suspension loaded.
  • Rear control arms: Usually easier. Remove bolts at subframe and knuckle. Note alignment eccentric bolts – mark position before removal to preserve alignment. Replace bushings if press is available, but aftermarket arms with polyurethane bushings are an option.

Alignment After Suspension Replacement

Any time you replace struts, control arms, or tie rods, an alignment is necessary. Even replacing strut mounts can affect camber. A full four-wheel alignment will ensure even tire wear and proper handling. Expect to pay $80-$100 at a shop. Some DIYers use string alignment methods, but for the Altima's rear multi-link, shop alignment is recommended.

Parts Selection Tips

When choosing replacement parts, consider these factors:

  • Struts: KYB Excel-G or Monroe OESpectrum are good budget options. For better handling, Bilstein B4 or B6. Avoid cheap no-name brands.
  • Control arms: OEM is expensive. Aftermarket like Moog, Mevotech, or Duralast with pre-installed bushings and ball joints are common. Check that ball joint boot is greasable.
  • Sway bar links: Metal links (Moog or OEM) are more durable than plastic.
  • Rear shocks: KYB GR-2/Excel-G or Monroe Sensa-Trac work well for daily driving.
  • Bushings: If pressing bushings, polyurethane (Energy Suspension) lasts longer but rides firmer. Rubber is quieter.

Conclusion

Changing suspension parts on a 2007 Nissan Altima is a rewarding DIY project that can transform the driving experience. Focus on the front struts, control arm bushings, and sway bar links – these are the most common failure points. Always replace parts in pairs and get an alignment afterward. With the right tools and patience, you can restore your Altima's ride quality and safety.

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