Complete Guide: All Parts to Redo Suspension System

Redoing a vehicle's suspension system is a major project that can restore ride quality, handling, and safety. Whether you're tackling a full rebuild for an older car or upgrading for performance, knowing all the parts required is essential. This guide covers every component you'll likely need to redo a suspension system from top to bottom. We focus on typical front and rear suspension layouts found on modern cars and light trucks.

Why a Full Suspension Overhaul?

Over time, suspension parts wear out. Bushings crack, shocks lose damping, springs sag, and ball joints loosen. Instead of replacing one part at a time, a complete redo ensures even wear, consistent handling, and saves labor in the long run. A full overhaul also lets you upgrade components for better performance or durability.

All Parts to Redo Suspension System: The Complete List

Front Suspension Parts

Shocks or Struts

• Shock absorbers: Used on vehicles with separate springs (common on trucks and older cars). They control oscillation.
• Struts: A structural unit combining shock and spring, common on modern cars. Strut assemblies often include the spring, mount, and bearing.
• When redoing: Replace shocks or struts in pairs (both front). Consider complete quick-strut assemblies for easier installation.

Coil Springs or Leaf Springs

• Coil springs: Work with shocks or struts. Replace if sagging, broken, or rusty.
• Leaf springs: Found on truck rear suspensions (and some front solid axles). Replace if cracked or sagging.
• Upgrade options: Heavy-duty or progressive-rate springs for towing or off-road.

Control Arms

• Upper and lower control arms: Connect the wheel hub to the frame. They have bushings and ball joints.
• Full replacement: Many choose to replace entire control arms with pre-installed bushings and ball joints to save labor.
• Bushings: If reusing arms, replace all control arm bushings (rubber or polyurethane).

Ball Joints

• Ball joints: Pivot points between control arms and steering knuckle. Wear leads to loose steering and clunks.
• Press-in vs. bolt-on: Some vehicles require pressing old ball joints out; others use bolt-on designs.

Sway Bar (Stabilizer Bar) and Links

• Sway bar links: Connect the sway bar to the control arm or strut. Replace if bushings are torn or end links are loose.
• Sway bar bushings: Mount the sway bar to the frame. Worn bushings cause clunking and reduced roll control.

Steering Tie Rods

• Inner and outer tie rods: Part of the steering linkage. Though not strictly suspension, they are often replaced during a front-end overhaul.
• Check for play: If any movement exists, replace both inner and outer on each side.

Strut Mounts and Bearings (for strut-type suspensions)

• Strut mounts: Rubber/steel top mounts that absorb vibration. Replace when struts are replaced.
• Strut bearings: Allow the strut to rotate with steering. If notchy or noisy, replace.

Bushings (Miscellaneous)

• Rear control arm bushings (for front lower arms).
• Tension strut bushings (on some designs).
• Engine cradle or subframe bushings: Rare but replace if deteriorated.

Rear Suspension Parts

Shocks or Struts

• Rear shocks: Separate from springs on many cars and trucks. Replace in pairs.
• Rear struts: On vehicles with independent rear suspension (e.g., many sedans). Replace as assemblies.

Springs

• Coil springs: Common in independent rear setups and some solid axles.
• Leaf springs: Common on trucks and vans. Replace shackles and bushings at same time.

Control Arms and Trailing Arms

• Lower control arms: Support the axle or hub.
• Upper control arms: Found on multi-link setups.
• Trailing arms: Found on solid axle suspensions (e.g., Jeep, Ford 8.8). Replace bushings.

Bushings

• Control arm bushings (often multiple per arm).
• Leaf spring bushings (eyes and shackles).
• Sway bar bushings and links (if rear sway bar equipped).

Panhard Rod or Track Bar

• Panhard rod: Centering link for solid axles. Bushes wear. Replace rod if bent or bushings gone.
• Track bar: Same function. Also replace bracket bushings.

Axle Shims or Alignment Cams

• For leaf spring setups: Shims adjust pinion angle. Replace if rusted.
• Rear alignment cams: On independent suspensions, adjust camber/toe. Replace if frozen.

Hardware and Miscellaneous

Bolts, Nuts, and Washers

• Many suspension bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced. Never reuse bolts that are stretch-type (e.g., control arm bolts, strut bolts).
• Grade: Use OEM or higher grade (8.8 metric or 10.9).

Grease and Lubricants

• High-temperature chassis grease for ball joints and tie rod ends (if greasable).
• Anti-seize on bolts (threads only) to prevent corrosion.

Corrosion Protection

• Use rust inhibitor or paint on exposed metal parts (e.g., spring seats, chassis contact points).

Optional Upgrades

• Polyurethane bushings: Firmer ride, better handling, but more noise transmission.
• Adjustable control arms: For alignment correction after lifts or lowering.
• Performance shocks: Bilstein, Koni, Fox (examples). Choose based on use (street, off-road, track).
• Coilover kits: Combine spring and shock in one adjustable unit.

How to Plan Your Suspension Redo

Assess Your Vehicle's Needs

• Inspect: Look for leaking shocks, torn bushings, cracked springs, loose ball joints.
• Mileage: Replace most parts around 80,000–100,000 miles (sooner in rust belt).
• Usage: If towing or off-roading, consider heavy-duty parts.

Buy Complete Kits

• Many manufacturers offer complete suspension rebush kits that include bushings for all arms.
• Full front end kits often include ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links, and shocks.
• Verify the kit covers your specific vehicle and trim.

Tools and Skills Required

• Basic: Jack stands, wrenches, sockets, ball joint press, spring compressor (if not using quick struts).
• Advanced: Torque wrench (critical), alignment tools (if not having shop align).
• Time: Expect 8–16 hours for a DIY full redo on two axles.

Practical Tips for a Successful Suspension Overhaul

• Replace in pairs: Always do both sides of an axle (left and right) for even handling.
• Replace hardware: Use new bolts and nuts—never reuse stretch bolts.
• Torque to spec: Tighten bolts with vehicle's weight on suspension (unless specified otherwise).
• Get an alignment: After any suspension work, a four-wheel alignment is essential for tire life and steering.
• Break loose bolts early: Soak with penetrating oil days before to prevent stripping.
• Label removed parts: Especially shims and alignment cams, but final alignment will correct anyway.

Final Recommendation

For a complete suspension redo, prioritize quality over savings. Buy name-brand components (Moog, Delphi, AC Delco, OEM) for critical parts like ball joints and tie rods. Use complete kit sleeves where possible. If your budget allows, opt for quick-struts on front and rear to cut labor. Always replace bushings in all control arms you remove—they are cheap and time-consuming to do later. After installation, drive a few miles then re-torque any pivots, then align immediately. A well-planned suspension overhaul can make your vehicle ride like new for another 100,000 miles.