If you own a 1996 Acura Integra GSR and are planning a suspension overhaul, you need to know exactly what parts to buy. The GSR’s double-wishbone suspension is robust but after 25+ years, bushings wear, shocks leak, and ball joints loosen. This guide covers every component required to restore or upgrade your GSR’s suspension, with practical advice on OEM versus aftermarket choices.
Replacing all suspension parts at once saves labor and ensures consistent handling. Whether you are lowering the car, improving cornering, or just returning it to factory spec, you’ll need a complete list. Below, we break down each category of parts for the front and rear suspension.
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Front Suspension Components
Struts and Shocks
The 1996 Integra GSR uses separate struts (front) and shocks (rear). For the front, you need complete strut assemblies or just the cartridge if reusing springs. OEM replacements from KYB or Tokico are popular. For a budget rebuild, KYB GR-2 (now Excel-G) offers a factory-like ride. If you want sharper handling, consider Koni Yellow or Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks. Avoid cheap no-name brands – they fail quickly.
Coil Springs
Stock springs have a progressive rate. You can replace with OEM equivalents from MOOG or aftermarket lowering springs like Eibach Pro-Kit (1.2-inch drop) or H&R Sport (1.5-inch drop). If you choose lowering springs, you may need shorter bump stops to prevent bottoming out. Always replace springs in pairs.
Upper Control Arms
Both front upper control arms have ball joints that wear over time. Replace with OEM Acura parts or aftermarket units from MOOG (Problem Solver series). Some aftermarket arms offer replaceable ball joints, but OEM rubber bushings last longer. For a performance build, you might use adjustable upper control arms from Skunk2 or Hardrace to align camber after lowering.
Lower Control Arms
Front lower control arms are less prone to failure but the rear bushings often crack. You can press in new bushings or buy complete arms with bushings already installed. Mevotech or MOOG sell full lower control arms. If your car is lowered, plan to upgrade the compliance bushing to a stiffer material.
Ball Joints
There are four lower ball joints (two per side) and two upper ball joints. Lower ball joints are critical – inspect for torn boots or play. Replace with MOOG K500174 (front lower) and K500168 (front upper). Always use factory-style tapered joints; adjustable ball joints are unnecessary for street use.
Sway Bar and End Links
The front sway bar rarely fails, but its bushings and end links wear. Replace the sway bar bushings (Energy Suspension polyurethane) for tighter roll control. End links – both front and rear – fatigue. MOOG K80295 for the front, K80304 for the rear are affordable and durable. Polyurethane end links are also available.
Tie Rods
Inner and outer tie rods affect steering precision. For the GSR, outer tie rods are more common to need replacement. MOOG outer tie rods (ES3436) fit well. Consider replacing inner tie rods if there is play at the rack. Use OEM or MOOG for longevity.
Rear Suspension Components
Rear Shocks
Rear shocks are separate from the spring. The GSR uses a dual-wishbone rear suspension, so shocks mount to the knuckle and crossmember. KYB Excel-G or Bilstein B6 are excellent direct replacements. If lowering, you may need shorter shocks like Koni Sport or Tokico HP. Always replace shocks in pairs.
Rear Coil Springs
Rear springs are removable without compressors. OEM springs are adequate, but aftermarket options exist. Eibach Pro-Kit springs for the GSR lower both ends evenly. Pair with matching front springs.
Trailing Arms
The rear trailing arms (lateral links) have rubber bushings that cause vague handling when worn. Replace with aftermarket arms from Hardrace or Skunk2 that feature polyurethane or spherical bushings. If staying OEM, press in new rubber bushings from Acura.
Upper and Lower Control Arms
Rear upper control arms adjust camber. Aftermarket adjustable arms (SPC, Hardrace) allow alignment correction after lowering. Stock arms are non-adjustable. Lower control arms (a-arms) often get new bushings; complete arms from MOOG or Mevotech are available.
Toe Links
Rear toe links connect the knuckle to the subframe. Worn bushings cause loose rear end. Replace with adjustable toe links (Hardrace) if you lower the car, or OEM rubber for stock height.
Bushings and Mounts
Full suspension refresh requires replacing all rubber bushings. Energy Suspension makes a complete polyurethane master bushing set for the GSR. This includes front and rear control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and shock mounts. Polyurethane stiffens the ride but lasts longer. For a daily driver, rubber is quieter. You can also buy pre-pressed bushings from MOOG or Mevotech which save labor.
What About the Subframe and Chassis?
Inspect the front subframe for rust around the control arm mounting points. The rear crossmember bolts can seize – use anti-seize during reassembly. Replace any worn subframe bushings with Mugen or Hasport solid mounts if you track the car. For most street cars, new OEM bushings or poly inserts suffice.
Complete Parts List for a Full Refresh
Here is a checklist of all suspension parts for a 1996 Integra GSR:
- Front strut assemblies (or cartridges)
- Rear shocks
- Front coil springs (stock or lowered)
- Rear coil springs
- Front upper control arms
- Front lower control arms
- Rear upper control arms (adjustable recommended)
- Rear lower control arms
- Rear trailing arms
- Rear toe links
- Front sway bar bushings and end links
- Rear sway bar bushings and end links
- Outer tie rods (and inner if needed)
- All ball joints (4 lower + 2 upper)
- Full bushing kit (poly or rubber)
- Strut mount and bearing (front top hats)
- Dust boots and bump stops
OEM vs. Aftermarket: What to Choose?
OEM Acura parts (bought from the dealer or online) are exactly what came on the car. They last well but cost more. For ball joints and control arms, OEM is a safe bet. However, for bushings and performance parts, aftermarket offerings like Energy Suspension or Hardrace give you better durability or adjustability. If you plan to lower the car, aftermarket adjustable control arms are almost mandatory to avoid excessive camber tire wear.
Tools and Labor Considerations
A full suspension replacement requires spring compressors, a ball joint press, and a torque wrench. Most tasks are doable with basic tools, but pressing bushings might need a hydraulic press. If you are not mechanically inclined, budget $800–$1,200 in labor from a shop. The parts themselves can range from $500 (economy) to $2,500 (premium aftermarket).
Practical Final Recommendation
For a daily-driven 1996 Integra GSR, our suggestion is to replace all wear items with high-quality OEM-equivalent parts:
- KYB Excel-G struts and shocks
- MOOG control arms and ball joints
- Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing set
- Eibach Pro-Kit springs (if you want a subtle drop)
- Hardrace adjustable rear control arms (only if lowering)
This combination balances cost, longevity, and improved handling. If you track the car, swap to Koni Yellows and spherical bushings for maximum performance. Always align after installation. Rebuilding the entire suspension at once is more efficient than piecemeal repairs, and you will feel the difference immediately.