The Complete Guide to AW11 Suspension Parts: Restoration, Upgrades, and Compatibility

The Toyota MR2 AW11 is a beloved first-generation mid-engine sports car. Its suspension system is key to its legendary handling, but after 30+ years, parts wear out. Whether you're restoring a stock AW11 or upgrading for performance, choosing the right suspension parts is critical. This guide covers the essential components, compatibility notes, and buying considerations for AW11 suspension.

Understanding the AW11 Suspension Layout

The AW11 features a fully independent suspension with MacPherson struts up front and a strut-type rear with lateral links. The design is simple but effective, giving the car sharp turn-in and neutral balance. Key components include:

• Struts and shock absorbers
• Coil springs
• Control arms and bushings
• Sway bars (anti-roll bars)
• Ball joints and tie rod ends
• Strut mounts and bump stops

Unlike modern cars, the AW11 uses a non-MacPherson rear setup with a separate knuckle and lateral link. This means rear suspension parts are unique to the AW11, with limited interchange with other Toyotas.

Key AW11 Suspension Parts and Their Functions

Struts and Shock Absorbers

The AW11 struts combine the shock and spring in one unit up front. Rear shocks are separate from the springs. Common options include:

• OEM-style replacement: KYB Excel-G (Gas-a-Just) or Tokico HP (now unavailable) are popular. They restore factory ride quality and are affordable.
• Performance shocks: Bilstein B6 (heavy-duty) or B8 (sport) offer better damping control. Koni Sport (adjustable) allow tuning for street or track.
• Coilovers: Full coilover kits like Tein Flex Z, BC Racing, or KW V1 eliminate the need for separate springs and shocks. They offer ride height adjustability and improved damping.

For street use, quality twin-tube shocks (KYB, Bilstein B6) provide a good balance. For autocross or track, monotube or adjustable options are better.

Springs

Stock AW11 springs are progressive rate. Aftermarket options include:

• Lowering springs: Eibach Pro-Kit, H&R, or TEIN S.Tech lower the car 1–1.5 inches. They increase spring rate for less body roll.
• Coilover springs: With coilovers, you get linear rate springs chosen with the kit.

Matching spring rate to shock damping is important. Too stiff a spring on soft shocks will bounce. A common upgrade is to pair Bilstein B8 struts with Eibach springs.

Bushings

Old rubber bushings cause vague steering and unpredictable handling. Replacing with polyurethane (SuperPro, Energy Suspension) or solid spherical bearings (for race) tightens response. Key bushing locations:

• Front control arm bushings (front and rear)
• Rear trailing arm bushings (lateral link and toe link)
• Rear knuckle bushings
• Sway bar bushings

Polyurethane is a great street compromise: stiffer than rubber but still quiet. For daily driving, avoid solid bearings unless you're prepared for harshness.

Sway Bars

AW11 sway bars are thin. Upgrading to a thicker bar (22mm vs stock 20mm front, or adding a rear bar if your car didn't have one) reduces body roll. Companies like Suspension Techniques or Whiteline offer bars. Note: A thicker rear bar increases oversteer tendency, which can be fun but requires careful tuning.

Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends

These wear over time and cause clunks or play. OEM replacement from Toyota (often discontinued) or aftermarket like Moog, Mevotech, or Beck/Arnley are available. For the AW11, front ball joints are pressed into the control arm. Aftermarket control arms with pre-installed ball joints (like from Detroit Axle) simplify replacement.

Strut Mounts and Bump Stops

Strut mounts (top hats) on the front struts wear and cause noise. Polyurethane or reinforced rubber mounts like Cusco are upgrades. Bump stops are often neglected; replace them when swapping struts.

Compatibility: What Fits the AW11?

AW11 suspension is mostly specific to the 1984–1989 MR2, but some parts interchange:

• Front struts: Some aftermarket manufacturers list the same strut for AW11 and SW20 (second gen MR2), but they are not physically identical. Always confirm fitment for AW11.
• Rear shocks: AW11 rear shocks are unique due to the separate spring mount. SW20 parts do not fit.
• Springs: AW11 rear springs are a conical shape. Some lowering springs (like Eibach) are designed for AW11 only.
• Bushings: Many AW11 bushings are also used in the SW20, but check application.

Use part numbers from trusted suppliers. Avoid universal parts unless verified.

Buying Considerations

New, Used, or Refurbished?

• New: Best for critical parts like ball joints, tie rods, and bushings. Shocks and springs degrade internally over time, so buying new is recommended.
• Used: Only for OEM struts in good condition (low mileage). Avoid used bushings or springs.
• Refurbished: Some shops rebuild OEM struts with new inserts. This can be cost-effective if done properly.

Brand Reputation

• KYB: OEM supplier for many Toyotas; reliable and reasonably priced.
• Bilstein: Premium quality; long life. B6/B8 are excellent.
• Eibach: Top-tier springs; progressive-rate lowering springs are well-matched to Bilstein.
• SuperPro: Polyurethane bushings with good durability.
• BC Racing: Entry-level coilovers with good adjustability for the price.

Avoid no-name brands from unknown sellers. Quality control is poor, and fitment may be wrong.

DIY vs. Shop Installation

AW11 suspension is straightforward to work on if you have basic tools and a spring compressor. However, the rear toe adjustment is sensitive and should be professionally aligned afterward. Replacing bushings often requires a press. If you're not confident, budget for professional installation.

Recommended Builds for Different Goals

Daily Driver / Restoration

• Shocks: KYB Excel-G (front) + Gas-a-Just (rear) or Bilstein B6 set.
• Springs: OEM replacement or Eibach Pro-Kit for slight drop.
• Bushings: Replace all rubber with SuperPro polyurethane.
• Sway bars: Stock is fine; replace bushings only.
• Ball joints/tie rods: Moog or OEM.

Weekend Autocross / Track

• Coilovers: BC Racing BR or Tein Flex Z (focus on damping adjustability).
• Bushings: Polyurethane or Delrin for control arms.
• Sway bars: Whiteline adjustable front and rear.
• Strut mounts: Cusco or TRD (if available) for caster adjustment.

Budget Street Build

• Shocks: KYB Gas-a-Just all around (or use GR2 replacement front struts).
• Springs: Used Eibach springs if in good condition, or stock springs.
• Bushings: Only replace worn ones with Energy Suspension poly kit.
• Alignment: Set to factory specs or mild negative camber.

Final Recommendation

For most AW11 owners, the best bang for the buck is a set of Bilstein B6 struts and shocks paired with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. This combination restores ride quality, reduces body roll, and improves handling without being harsh. Pair this with a full polyurethane bushing refresh from SuperPro to eliminate vagueness. Replace all ball joints and tie rod ends with Moog or OEM parts. Then, get a professional alignment. This setup will transform your AW11 into a precise, fun-to-drive car that's still comfortable for daily use. If your budget is tighter, KYB Excel-G struts and stock springs (or used Eibach) are a solid choice.

Remember, suspension parts wear as a system. Replacing only shocks on old springs and bushings won't give you the full benefit. Plan a complete refresh if you have the means. For track use, invest in coilovers and adjustable sway bars to tune the car to your driving style. Whatever you choose, buy quality parts from reputable suppliers, and don't skip the alignment—it's the final step that makes everything work together.