BMW E90 Full Suspension Refresh Parts List

Refreshing the suspension on a BMW E90 (2006–2011 3 Series) can transform how the car drives. Over time, bushings wear, shocks lose dampening, and ball joints develop play. A full suspension refresh restores original handling or provides an opportunity to upgrade. This guide covers every part you’ll need for a complete refresh, from front to back.

Front Suspension Components

Strut Assemblies

The front suspension uses MacPherson struts. You can replace only the strut inserts or buy complete strut assemblies with new springs and mounts. For a full refresh, consider:

• Strut inserts: Bilstein B4 (OE-like comfort), B6 (heavy-duty for lowering springs), or B8 (for lowered cars). Koni Yellow (adjustable) are another popular choice.
• Strut mounts: Replace the upper strut mount bearing (also called a strut mount) – common part numbers are 31336782471 and 31336782472. If the bearing is rough, the mount is shot.
• Springs: Unless you want to change ride height, reuse original springs if they aren't sagging. Upgraded springs (H&R, Eibach) lower the car about 1-1.5 inches.
• Dust boots and bump stops: Use OEM or Febi Bilstein replacements to keep dirt out of the strut.

Control Arms (Thrust Arms)

The front tension strut (also called thrust arm) is a common wear item. It connects the lower control arm to the chassis and has a large rubber bushing. For a refresh:

• Complete thrust arm assembly: Lemförder or Meyle HD – includes the arm, ball joint, and bushing. OEM is Lemförder. Mevotech TTX is a budget-friendly option with better bushing.
• Lower control arms: There are two per side: the front (forward) and rear (back). The front lower control arm is often replaced as a set. Use Lemförder or TRW.
• Sway bar end links: Small but critical. Replace with OEM or Moog (greaseable).

Steering and Knuckle Parts

• Tie rods inner and outer: Common to replace when refreshing suspension. Use Lemförder, TRW, or OEM. Check the steering rack for play.
• Front wheel bearings: If you’re going this deep, inspect wheel bearings. A humming noise indicates wear. Replace with FAG or SKF.
• Ball joints: Some control arms come with integral ball joints. If not, you can press them out and replace with Febi or Meyle.

Rear Suspension Components

The rear is a multi-link setup. It’s more complex than the front, with numerous arms and bushings.

Rear Springs and Shock Absorbers

• Shock absorbers: Bilstein B4 or B6 are direct replacements. For sportier handling, B8 or Koni Yellow. If you have electronic dampening (EDC), you’ll need EDC-compatible shocks or a delete kit.
• Springs: Rear springs rarely fail but can sag. Replace in pairs if you’re doing springs. Use OEM or upgrade to H&R.
• Upper shock mounts: Replace with OEM or Rein. Look for part number 33526750022.

Rear Control Arms and Links

The rear suspension has multiple arms:

• Upper control arms (camber arms): These adjust rear camber. Worn bushings cause rear-end instability. Use Lemförder or Meyle HD. Adjustable arms (e.g., SPC) allow camber correction if you’ve lowered the car.
• Lower control arms (track arms): They connect the hub to the subframe. Replace with OEM or TRW.
• Toe links: Also called tie rods rear. Important for alignment stability. Replace with Lemförder.
• Guide rod (front upper control arm): Sometimes called the “dogbone” – another common wear point.
• Integral link (also called swing arm): Connects the hub to the trailing arm. Usually replaced with the control arm set.

Rear Subframe Bushings

The subframe bushings are notorious for causing clunks and vagueness. OEM rubber bushings wear out. Options:

• OEM replacement: Rein or Febi. Easy install with special tools.
• Upgraded polyurethane: Powerflex or Whiteline. Stiffer, reduces wheel hop, but increases NVH. For a street car, medium-durometer poly is a good balance.
• BMW M3 RSFB (rear subframe bushings): These are solid rubber from the E9X M3 – direct fit and much stiffer than standard E90 bushings.

Additional Parts and Hardware

Sway Bars and Bushings

• Front and rear sway bars: Upgraded sway bars (H&R, Eibach, M3 competition) reduce body roll. Standard bars are fine for most.
• Sway bar bushings: Always replace with fresh rubber or polyurethane. Meyle or Moog.
• End links: As mentioned, Moog greaseable are durable.

Hardware

• Bolts and nuts: Many suspension bolts are single-use (torque-to-yield). Replace them. Aftermarket kits are available (e.g., Rein or Autoparts). Specifically:
  • Strut mounting nuts (usually include with strut mount).
  • Lower control arm bolts (large 18mm).
  • Sway bar link nuts.
• Alignment bolts: E90s use eccentric bolts for camber adjustments. If rusty, replace them.

Bushings You Might Overlook

• Engine mounts: Not suspension, but worn mounts affect shifter feel and can cause vibration. Replace with OEM or Vibra-Technics.
• Transmission mounts: Similar story – worn mounts allow drivetrain slop.
• Differential bushings: Rear diff bushing (single, rear mount) and front two bushing ears. Poly or OEM.

Choosing Between OEM, Aftermarket, and Performance Parts

• OEM: Safe, known longevity. Brands like Lemförder, TRW, and Febi Bilstein produce OE parts. Good for a daily driver.
• Meyle HD: Upgraded rubber compound and stronger ball joints. Good middle ground.
• Bilstein: Benchmark shocks. B4 for gentle, B6/B8 for performance.
• Polyurethane bushings: Powerflex, Whiteline. Great for track cars but add noise. For street use, consider softer compounds.
• Adjustable control arms: Necessary if lowering more than 1 inch. SPC or K-Mac.

Pro Tips for a Successful Refresh

1. Replace in pairs: Always do both sides (left/right) for balance. Mixing new and old can cause uneven handling.
2. Plan for alignment: After any suspension work, get a professional alignment. The E90 is sensitive to toe.
3. Use a press: Some bushings require removal/installation with a press. Consider renting a tool or taking arms to a shop.
4. Inspect subframe: Early E90s (2006-2008) may have subframe cracks near the rear mounting points. Look for cracks before installing new bushings.
5. Torque specs matter: Tighten bolts with suspension under load (car on ground) to avoid premature bushing wear.

Sample Parts List for a Full Refresh

Here’s a practical list for a 2006-2011 328i or 335i (non-EDC). Quantities are for both sides.

Front:

• 2x Strut inserts (Bilstein B6 or B4)
• 2x Strut mounts (Febi 31336782471)
• 2x Dust boot & bump stop kit
• 2x Thrust arms (Lemförder 31126759695)
• 4x Lower control arms (forward + rear, Lemförder)
• 2x Tie rod ends (inner + outer, TRW)
• 2x Sway bar end links (Moog)
• 2x Sway bar bushings (if replacing)

Rear:

• 2x Shock absorbers (Bilstein B6)
• 2x Upper shock mounts (Rein 33526750022)
• 2x Upper control arms (camber arms, Lemförder)
• 2x Lower control arms (track arms, TRW)
• 2x Toe links (Lemförder)
• 2x Guide rods (front upper, Lemförder)
• 2x Integral links (Febi)
• 4x Rear subframe bushings (Powerflex PFR5-201)
• 2x Sway bar end links (Moog)
• 2x Differential bushing (if needed, OEM or Powerflex)

Hardware:

• Set of new bolts/nuts (available as a kit from ECS Tuning or FCP Euro)
• Alignment eccentric bolts (if needed)

Final Recommendation

For a street-driven BMW E90 that’s seen 80k+ miles, the sweet spot is OEM-quality arms (Lemförder or TRW) paired with Bilstein B6 shocks and polyurethane subframe bushings. Avoid cheap non-name brands – they wear out quickly. If you’re on a budget, Meyle HD is a solid compromise. Always replace hardware and get an alignment afterward. A full refresh will cost roughly $800–$1500 in parts (depending on upgrades) and make your E90 feel like new again.