DSM Performance Parts Suspension: Upgrades for Eclipse, Talon, and Laser

If you own a DSM (Diamond Star Motors) vehicle like a Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, or Plymouth Laser, you know these cars respond well to performance upgrades. While engine mods get most of the attention, upgrading the suspension is one of the most effective ways to improve handling, cornering, and overall driving feel. Whether you're building a daily driver, autocross warrior, or drag racer, choosing the right DSM performance suspension parts makes a huge difference. This guide covers the key suspension components, what to look for, and practical recommendations to help you decide.

Why Upgrade DSM Suspension?

Factory DSM suspension was designed for comfort and reasonable handling, but it shows its age—especially on 20+ year old cars. Worn bushings, soft springs, and underdamped shocks lead to body roll, vague steering, and poor traction. Upgrading bushes, springs, dampers, and anti-roll bars can transform how the car responds. You'll get sharper turn-in, better weight transfer, and increased confidence at higher speeds. Plus, a well-sorted suspension helps put power down, crucial for turbo DSMs.

Key DSM Performance Suspension Components

Coilover Kits

Coilovers replace the entire strut assembly with adjustable spring perches and dampers. They allow you to fine-tune ride height, spring preload, and often damping settings. For DSMs, popular brands include:

• BC Racing – BR and ER series offer ride height and 30-click damping adjustment. Good value for street and track.
• Tein – Flex Z and Street Basis Z are common. Reliable, with pillowball upper mounts on some models.
• KW – Variant 1, 2, or 3 for those wanting high-end German engineering. Pricey but excellent.
• Ohlins – Road & Track DFV coilovers provide superb comfort and performance. Top-tier but expensive.

What to consider: Decide on your primary use. Daily drivers lean toward softer valving with decent stroke. Track cars want stiffer rates and more damping range. Also check if the coilovers come with top hats (some require reusing stock ones).

Lowering Springs

If coilovers are out of budget, lowering springs pair with stock or aftermarket shocks. They lower the car about 1.0–1.8 inches and increase spring rate. Options:

• Eibach Pro-Kit – Progressive springs, moderate drop, good ride quality.
• H&R Sport or Race – Linear rates, firmer, used on many DSMs.
• Megan Racing – Affordable but harsh for street.

Heads up: With lowering springs, you'll likely need upgraded shocks to control the higher spring rate. Stock shocks blow prematurely.

Struts & Shocks

For those keeping springs, better dampers improve control. Options:

• Koni – Yellow adjustable shocks (twin tube) are common. Can be set to rebound stiffness. Works with lowering springs.
• Bilstein – B6/HD and B8/Sprint are monotube designs for firmer damping. B8 is for lowered cars.
• KYB – AGX adjustable shocks offer multiple settings. Budget friendly but less refined than Koni.

Tip: For a basic upgrade, replace worn shocks first. Pair with polyurethane bump stops to avoid harsh bottoming.

Sway Bars (Anti-Roll Bars)

Sway bars reduce body roll in corners. DSM front and rear sway bars can be upgraded separately.

• Stock upgrade – 1G cars can use the larger 2G front bar (approx 24mm vs 23mm).
• Aftermarket – Addco, Eibach, and Whiteline make adjustable bars. For DSMs, common sizes: 25mm front, 22mm rear (hollow).
• Adjustable end links – Replace rubber links with spherical or polyurethane for preload and durability.

Effect: A stiffer rear bar can induce oversteer; a stiffer front promotes understeer. Adjust to taste.

Bushings

Old rubber bushings cause sloppy handling. Polyurethane or Delrin bushings tighten up suspension geometry.

• Prothane / Energy Suspension – Full bushing kits for control arms, trailing arms, and differential. Good for street.
• Whiteline – High-quality polyurethane that resists squeaking.
• Spherical bearings – For race use, but noisy and harsh on the street.

Install note: Pressing bushings requires tools. Consider buying full assemblies (e.g., control arms with ball joints and bushings) to save labor.

Strut Tower Braces

These bars tie the front or rear strut towers to reduce chassis flex. On DSMs, a front strut bar improves steering feel. Rear bars help in hard cornering.

• Megan Racing – Inexpensive, fits OEM holes.
• Carbing – Triple brace for serious rigidity.
• Used OEM from 2G? Not common; aftermarket is better.

Matching Components for Your Goals

Not all parts work well together. Here's a guide based on common goals:

Daily Driver / Comfort

• Recommendation: Stock-replacement or slightly firmer shocks (KYB GR-2 or OEM) with stock springs. If you want a mild drop, use Eibach Pro-Kit springs with Koni Reds (non-adjustable) or stock shocks (be prepared to replace sooner). Add a front strut tower brace and replace worn rubber bushings with polyurethane.
• Budget: ~$400-800

Street Performance / Autocross

• Recommendation: Adjustable coilovers (BC Racing BR or Tein Flex Z) set to moderate ride height (around 1–1.5 inch drop). Pair with a rear sway bar upgrade (Whiteline 22mm) and poly bushings. Get adjustable end links for preload. Front strut bar recommended.
• Budget: ~$800-1500

Track / Time Attack

• Recommendation: High-end coilovers (KW V3 or Ohlins DFV) with firm spring rates (8k/6k or stiffer). Full polyurethane or spherical bushing kit, massive hollow sway bars (25mm front, 24mm rear), and adjustable control arms for camber. Consider a rear strut tower brace and roll center adjusters.
• Budget: ~$2000-4000+

Drag Racing

• Recommendation: For straight-line traction, focus on the rear suspension. Use adjustable coilovers (e.g., Viking) that allow soft compression to plant tires. Solid subframe bushings help. A front sway bar disconnect? Some remove front sway bar for weight transfer. Not recommended for street driving.
• Budget: varies widely.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Too stiff for street: Overly high spring rates (over 12k front) make the car bounce and wear tires quickly. Stick to 6k-8k for dual-purpose.
• Ignoring bump steer: Lowering the car changes tie rod angles. Use roll-center adjusters or bump steer kits to keep steering geometry correct.
• Skipping alignment: After any suspension change, get a proper alignment. DSMs need negative camber up front (-0.5 to -1.5 degrees) for turn-in.
• Reusing old hardware: Bolts can be rusted; replace strut nuts, top hat bearings, and bump stops.

Final Recommendation

For most DSM owners looking to upgrade suspension, a solid starting point is a set of BC Racing BR coilovers (about $900), a set of poly bushings for the front control arms and rear trailing arm, and a larger rear sway bar. This combo gives adjustable ride height, improved damping, reduced body roll, and sharper response without breaking the bank. Paired with a front strut bar and good tires, it transforms the car's handling. If your budget is tight, start with quality shocks (Koni Yellows) and Eibach Pro springs, then add a rear sway bar later. Always remember that the best suspension is one that matches your driving style and road conditions. Take time to research, and don't be afraid to ask fellow DSM enthusiasts—there's a wealth of real-world experience out there.