The Complete Guide to Honda Element Suspension Parts

The Honda Element is known for its utilitarian design and durable construction, but like any vehicle, its suspension system wears over time. Whether you're dealing with a saggy rear end, a bumpy ride, or clunking noises, understanding the key components and how to select the right replacements can save you money and headaches. This guide covers the essential Honda Element suspension parts, common failure points, and what to look for when shopping for replacements.

Understanding the Honda Element Suspension System

The Element uses a front MacPherson strut setup and a rear multi-link independent suspension. This design offers a good balance of ride comfort and cargo capacity, but it places stress on specific components. The front suspension includes strut assemblies, lower control arms, sway bar links, and tie rod ends. The rear suspension features trailing arms, upper and lower control arms, toe links, and separate shock absorbers.

Common Signs of Suspension Wear

• Nose diving under braking – worn front struts or shocks.
• Excessive body roll in corners – weakened sway bar links or bushings.
• Uneven tire wear – misalignment caused by worn control arm bushings or ball joints.
• Clunking or rattling over bumps – loose or worn sway bar links, control arms, or strut mounts.
• Rear sagging – sagging rear springs or worn shocks, especially common with heavy loads.

Front Suspension Parts

Front Strut Assemblies

The front strut combines the shock absorber and coil spring into one unit. When the strut leaks fluid or loses damping ability, the ride becomes bouncy and steering response suffers. Many owners choose to replace the entire assembly (quick strut) to save time, because it comes pre-assembled with a new spring, strut mount, and boot. Alternatively, you can buy just the strut cartridge and reuse the old spring and mount. Quick struts are generally recommended for DIYers to avoid spring compressor rental and assembly complexity.

Key considerations:

• OEM vs aftermarket: OEM parts are reliable but pricey; quality aftermarket brands like Monroe, KYB, and Gabriel offer good value.
• Check the strut mount for cracking – always replace the mount if you go with a cartridge.
• For lifted or lowered Elements, consider adjustable coilovers, but these are more expensive and often stiffer.

Lower Control Arms

The front lower control arm connects the frame to the steering knuckle and houses the ball joint and two bushings. Worn bushings cause vague steering and alignment drift. A worn ball joint creates play and can lead to failure if ignored. Replacing the entire control arm assembly with new bushings and ball joint pre-installed is the most straightforward approach. Aftermarket arms from Moog or Mevotech are popular replacements; OEM arms are also available but more costly.

Sway Bar Links

These small links connect the sway bar to the control arm or strut. When their plastic bushings degrade, they create a clunk over bumps. Sway bar links are inexpensive and easy to replace – a common first DIY suspension job. Use OEM or Moog greasable versions for longer life.

Tie Rod Ends

Tie rod ends connect the steering rack to the steering knuckle. Worn inner or outer tie rods cause wandering steering and uneven tire wear. Always replace in pairs and get an alignment afterward. Quality aftermarket brands (Moog, TRW) are reliable and cost less than OEM.

Rear Suspension Parts

Rear Shocks

The Element uses separate shocks and springs in the rear (not struts). The shocks are prone to leaking, especially under heavy loads. Replace them with direct-fit replacements from KYB, Monroe, or Bilstein. For a comfortable ride, stick with gas-charged shocks. Avoid over-expensive options unless you carry very heavy loads regularly.

Rear Coil Springs

Rear springs sag over time, especially if you frequently load the Element with gear or tow. Sagging springs cause a tilted stance and bottoming out. New springs restore ride height. Choose OEM or progressive-rate aftermarket springs if you want a slight lift or better load handling. Verify spring rate fits your driving needs – heavy-duty springs may be harsh when unloaded.

Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms

The rear suspension uses multiple arms to control the wheel's camber and toe. Worn bushings in these arms cause alignment issues and tire wear. Replacing the entire arm is easier than pressing in new bushings. Aftermarket camber adjustability arms are available if you've lowered the vehicle and need to realign the rear wheels. For stock ride height, standard OEM-style arms are fine.

Rear Trailing Arms

These arms locate the wheel front-to-back. Their bushings can dry out and crack, leading to a vague rear end feel. Replacing them typically requires removing the hub assembly – a moderately difficult job. Consider rubber vs. polyurethane bushings: rubber is quieter but wears faster; polyurethane lasts longer but transmits more noise and vibration.

Bushings and Mounts

Replacing bushings alone (without the entire arm) can be cost-effective if you have a press or access to a shop. However, many DIYers opt for complete assemblies to simplify the job. Common bushing locations:

• Front lower control arm (two per side)
• Rear upper and lower control arms (two each)
• Rear trailing arm (one per side)
• Sway bar bushings (front and rear)

Strut mounts (top hats) should always be replaced when installing new struts. Their integrated bearing can dry out and cause clicking when turning.

Choosing Between OEM and Aftermarket

• OEM – Guaranteed fit, consistent quality, but expensive. Best for those who want a factory-like ride and plan to keep the vehicle stock.
• Aftermarket (premium) – Brands like Moog, KYB, Monroe, and Mevotech offer parts that often match or exceed OEM quality at a lower price. Many include lifetime warranties (read the fine print).
• Budget aftermarket – Cheaper parts may use thinner steel or lower-quality rubber. They can work for a short time but may fail sooner. Not recommended for critical components like control arms or struts.

For most owners, going with a well-known aftermarket brand for struts, shocks, and suspension arms is the best value. Sway bar links and tie rods are low-stress parts where budget options can be acceptable if replaced often.

Installation Tips and Warnings

• Always support the vehicle on jack stands, never just a jack.
• Use penetrating oil on rusty bolts a day before starting.
• Replace fasteners if they are rusted or damaged – torque to factory specs.
• After replacing any suspension component, get a professional alignment. Even small changes can cause tire wear.
• If you're replacing both front struts, consider replacing the front sway bar links and tie rod ends at the same time to save labor later.

Recommended Brands and Part Numbers

Front

• Quick strut (left & right): Monroe 171910 (left) and 171911 (right) – check fitment for year.
• Lower control arms: Moog RK623008 (driver) and RK623009 (passenger).
• Sway bar links: Moog K80355 (front).

Rear

• Shocks: KYB 349111 (left) and 349112 (right).
• Coil springs: OEM 52441-SCV-A01 (standard) or aftermarket sets from Moog.
• Upper control arms: Moog RK642137 and RK642138.

Always verify compatibility with your Element's model year.

Final Recommendation

For most Honda Element owners, the sweet spot is mixing OEM-grade bushings and springs with quality aftermarket dampers (struts/shocks). If your Element has high mileage (over 150k), consider replacing the entire front strut assemblies and all four corners of control arms with bushings pre-installed. This upfront investment gives you a solid foundation for tens of thousands of miles. Don't forget to inspect the steering rack and tie rods – they often wear concurrently. A properly restored suspension transforms the Element's ride and handling, making it more enjoyable for daily driving and adventures alike.