If you're considering switching from coilovers back to a standard suspension setup, you're likely after a smoother ride, less maintenance, or a return to OEM reliability. While coilovers offer adjustability and performance, they can be harsh on daily roads and require frequent attention. Fortunately, the conversion is straightforward with the right parts. This guide covers everything you'll need to make the change successfully.
Overview of the Conversion
Swapping from coilovers to standard suspension involves removing the adjustable coilover units and installing factory-style struts, shocks, and springs. Unlike coilovers that combine spring and damper adjustment into one unit, standard suspension uses separate components: a strut or shock with a coil spring mounted around it. Many parts are interchangeable between different vehicles, but it's critical to match parts to your specific make and model.
Key Parts Needed
Complete Strut and Spring Assemblies (Front)
For the front, you'll need complete strut assemblies, which include the strut housing, shock absorber, and coil spring pre-assembled. Buying loaded struts saves time because the spring is already compressed onto the strut. If you opt for separate components, you'll need a spring compressor and the skill to assemble them. Choose either OEM replacements or high-quality aftermarket options from brands like Monroe, KYB, or Sachs.
Complete Shock and Spring Assemblies (Rear)
Rear suspension varies by vehicle. Many cars use separate shocks and springs, while others have coilover-style units even in standard form. For cartridges, you'll need shock absorbers and coil springs. Some vehicles use a shock and spring separate; others (like many strut-type rears) require a similar assembly as the front. Again, fully assembled units simplify the job.
Strut Mounts and Bearings
Strut mounts attach the top of the strut to the vehicle's chassis. They often include a bearing that allows the strut to turn with the steering. Over time, these deteriorate and cause noise or misalignment. Since you're replacing the entire assembly, install new mounts and bearings. They're relatively inexpensive and ensure a solid foundation.
Coil Spring Insulators and Isolators
Rubber isolators sit between the spring and its mounting points to reduce noise and vibration. These are often reused if still in good condition, but it's wise to replace them during a suspension overhaul. They’re cheap and help prevent squeaks.
Bump Stops and Dust Covers
Bump stops are rubber bumpers that prevent suspension from bottoming out. Dust covers protect the strut rod from dirt and debris. Most standard suspension kits include these, but if you're piecing together parts, order new ones. They enhance longevity and ride quality.
Lower Control Arms (If Needed)
If your coilovers used a different lower mounting point or if the ball joints are worn, you may need new lower control arms. Some vehicles require the arm to be removed to install the new strut. Check for play in the ball joint; if it's loose, replace the entire arm rather than just the joint—it's safer and easier.
Sway Bar Links
Sway bar links connect the sway bar to the control arm or strut. Coilovers often come with adjustable links, but standard suspension uses fixed-length links. If your current links are damaged or if the geometry changes, replace them with OEM-style links.
Hardware and Nuts/Bolts
Many coilover kits use specialized hardware that may not work with standard components. You'll need new hardware, including strut-to-knuckle bolts, top nut for the strut mount, and any fasteners for the sway bar links. Purchase a suspension hardware kit for your vehicle to ensure proper fitment and torque specifications.
Alignment
After installing the standard suspension, you must get a wheel alignment. Coilovers allow camber adjustment, but standard suspension relies on factory geometry. An alignment ensures even tire wear and proper handling. Budget for this as a required part of the conversion.
Choosing Between OEM and Aftermarket Standard Suspension
You have two main options: OEM (genuine dealer parts) or aftermarket standard suspension. OEM parts offer exact fit and OEM ride quality but at a higher price. Aftermarket brands like Bilstein, Monroe, or KYB often produce components that match or exceed OEM standards for a lower cost. For daily driving, a quality aftermarket set is usually sufficient and can improve ride comfort. However, if you want a completely stock feel, stick with OEM.
Additional Considerations
- Tools: You'll need spring compressors (if not using pre-assembled units), jack stands, wrenches, and torque wrench.
- Compatibility: Verify that the standard suspension parts are compatible with your vehicle's chassis and brake setup. Some cars have different configurations for sport and base models.
- Ride Height: Standard suspension will return the car to factory ride height. If you want a small drop (e.g., 1 inch), consider using lowering springs specifically designed for standard shocks. But be aware that this compromises comfort slightly.
- Cost: Total parts can range from $400 to $1,200, depending on your vehicle and choice of brand. Add labor if you're not doing it yourself.
Final Recommendation
If you're converting for comfort and simplicity, buy pre-assembled loaded struts and shocks for all four corners from a reputable aftermarket brand. Combine them with new mounts, bump stops, and sway bar links. This minimizes guesswork and ensures all parts work together. Avoid mixing cheap unknowns with OEM—stick to a consistent brand package. After installation, get a professional alignment. The result will be a reliable, comfortable ride without the fuss of coilovers.
Remember, this task is doable with basic mechanical skills, but if you're uncertain, a shop can complete it in a few hours. The parts list above gives you everything needed to plan the swap and gather materials. Enjoy the smoother ride and less frequent adjustments.