The Essential Guide to Plating Parts for Porsche 356 Restoration

Restoring a Porsche 356 to its former glory often involves more than just mechanical work—the finish on every metal part matters. Plating parts for Porsche 356 is a critical step that can make or break the authenticity and durability of your restoration. Whether you're bringing a 356 back to factory spec or building a custom driver, understanding the different plating options, which parts require them, and how to get quality results will save you time, money, and frustration.

Types of Plating Used on the Porsche 356

Porsche used several plating methods on the 356, each serving a specific purpose. Knowing the difference helps you match original finishes and ensure long-lasting protection.

Chrome Plating

Chrome plating is the most iconic finish on a 356. Bumpers, grilles, and trim pieces were originally chrome-plated to give the car its distinctive shine. True chrome plating involves a layer of nickel followed by a thin layer of chromium. It's durable but expensive. For a concours restoration, you'll want show-quality chrome that’s free of pits and distortion. However, modern regulations have tightened, so finding a plater that does hexavalent chrome (the original type) is rare; most use trivalent chrome, which is slightly less shiny but environmentally friendlier.

Nickel Plating

Nickel plating was used on interior components like window cranks, door handles, and dashboard knobs. It provides a subtle, satin-like finish that doesn't glare like chrome. Satin nickel or matte nickel can be replicated by bead-blasting before plating. For correctness, many restorers opt for electroless nickel, which gives uniform coverage even on complex shapes.

Zinc Plating (Cadmium Substitute)

Many under-hood and chassis fasteners, brackets, and small hardware were originally cadmium-plated, but cadmium is now banned for most uses. Yellow zinc or clear zinc plating is the accepted replacement. Yellow zinc has a golden hue, while clear zinc looks silver. For a correct restoration, you'll want the specific color code used by Porsche in the early 1950s and 1960s. Some platers offer a cadmium-like finish by using a zinc-nickel alloy.

Black Phosphate and Parkerizing

Certain engine components, such as valve covers and oil pans, received a black phosphate or Parkerized finish. This is a conversion coating that leaves a dark, matte surface with good oil retention. It's less common but essential for authenticity on pre-1955 356s.

Anodizing for Aluminum Parts

Some 356 models had anodized aluminum trim, such as windshield frames or hood handles. Clear anodizing preserves the aluminum look while protecting against oxidation. Color anodizing (gold or black) was used on some custom orders. Ensure your plater has experience with anodizing because the results can vary wildly.

Which Parts Should Be Plated on Your Porsche 356?

Not every metal part needs plating, but for a proper restoration, you'll want to match the factory finish. Here’s a breakdown by area.

Exterior Trim

• Bumpers: Chrome, though some early 356s had painted bumpers. Check your serial number.
• Grille: Chrome for most, but center grille on 356A may be anodized aluminum.
• Egg crate grilles on 356B/C: Usually chrome.
• Headlight rings: Chrome.
• Windshield frame: Chrome or anodized depending on year.
• Hood and deck lid handles: Chrome.
• Side trim spears: Chrome or anodized.

Interior Components

• Door handles and window cranks: Nickel or chrome depending on year (early nickel, later chrome).
• Dashboard knobs and switch bezels: Nickel.
• Steering wheel horn ring: Chrome.
• Seat adjusters and latches: Zinc or nickel.

Engine and Chassis Hardware

• Fasteners: Almost all bolts, nuts, and washers were either cadmium (now zinc) or black oxide.
• Brake and fuel line fittings: Zinc.
• Exhaust components: Usually painted not plated, but some heat shields are zinc.
• Generator/alternator brackets: Zinc.
• Suspension parts: Some are zinc, but many were painted.

Finding a Quality Plater for Porsche 356 Parts

Plating is a specialized trade, and not all shops understand vintage car needs. You want a plater who:

• Specializes in restoration plating or automotive work.
• Can match original finishes (e.g., satin nickel vs. bright chrome).
• Offers small batch runs—you don't need to plate 10,000 bolts.
• Uses proper masking to avoid plating where it shouldn't be (threads often need to be free of plate).
• Provides a warranty against peeling or corrosion.

Expect to pay a premium for chrome—$200–$400 per bumper is common. Nickel and zinc are less expensive, but costs add up when you have dozens of parts. Ask for samples before committing.

DIY vs. Professional Plating

Can you plate parts yourself? Small-scale home plating kits exist for zinc and nickel, but chrome plating involves hazardous chemicals and is best left to professionals. DIY zinc plating is possible for hardware and small brackets—many restorers use a simple kit with a rectifier, zinc anodes, and solution. The results are acceptable for driver-quality cars but may not match the factory finish for concours. For critical exterior parts, always go pro.

Maintaining Plated Parts

Plated finishes require care. Chrome can corrode if the base metal wasn't perfect or if water gets under the plate. Avoid abrasive polishes—use a mild cleaner and soft cloth. Nickel can be polished gently. Zinc-plated parts should be kept dry—coat them with a light oil if they’re in a weather-exposed area.

Final Recommendation

For a show-quality Porsche 356 restoration, invest in professional chrome and nickel plating from a shop that understands vintage cars. Use zinc plating for hardware and fasteners to replicate the original cadmium look. Always verify the type of plating used on your specific year and model—references like the Porsche 356 Registry forum or restoration guides are invaluable. If budget is tight, prioritize visible parts (bumpers, trim) and consider DIY zinc for hidden items. With careful planning, your plated parts will look correct and last for decades.