Rubber Kit Parts List for a 1968 Porsche 911 Coupe

Restoring a 1968 Porsche 911 coupe requires careful attention to the rubber components. Over time, original rubber seals, gaskets, hoses, and bushings harden, crack, and lose their effectiveness, leading to leaks, wind noise, and compromised handling. A comprehensive rubber kit replacement restores the car's integrity and driving experience. This guide provides a detailed parts list organized by area to help you source the correct components for your restoration.

Body and Exterior Seals

The body of the 1968 911 coupe relies on multiple rubber seals to keep out water, dust, and wind. These are often the first parts to fail.

Front and Rear Windshield Seals

Front windshield seal – flat rubber gasket that sits between the glass and the body.
Rear window seal – similar profile but curved for the rear glass.
Quarter window seals (if applicable) – for the small fixed windows behind the doors.

Door Seals

Door weatherstripping – the main seal that closes against the body. Two pieces per door (upper and lower) for early 911s.
Door window inner and outer beltline seals – runs along the top edge of the door sheet metal to seal the glass.
Door threshold seal – covers the bottom edge of the door opening, often replaced with the inner sill plate seal.

Trunk and Engine Lid Seals

Trunk lid seal – perimeter seal around the front trunk opening.
Engine lid seal – similar seal for the rear engine bay lid.
Trunk tool roll cover seal (if present) – small seal inside the trunk for the tool roll compartment.

Roof and Channel Seals

Roof drip rail seals – two long rubber strips that run along the rain gutters.
Side window channel seals – rubber runs that guide and seal the side windows as they roll up.

Interior Rubber Components

Inside the cabin, rubber parts affect comfort and noise levels.

Pedal and Shift Boots

Clutch pedal rubber pad – original had a ribbed rubber cover.
Brake and gas pedal rubber pads – often sold as a set.
Shift lever boot – covers the opening in the transmission tunnel around the gear stick (both early and later shift pattern versions).
Handbrake lever boot – small rubber cover at the base of the parking brake handle.

Window and Door Hardware

Window regulator rubber guides – small pieces that guide the window lift mechanism.
Door latch rubber buffers – cushion the door when closing.
Interior door handle gaskets – prevent rattles.

Engine and Mechanical Rubber Parts

The engine bay and suspension contain many rubber components vital to performance and reliability.

Engine Gaskets and Seals

Valve cover gaskets – two sets (left and right) for the magnesium valve covers.
Oil filler cap seal – small O-ring.
Oil drain plug gasket – crush washer or O-ring depending on configuration.
Fuel pump gasket – between pump and engine housing.
Intake manifold gaskets – paper or rubber composite (check specifications).

Cooling and Heating Hoses

Heater hoses – two large hoses from the engine fan to the heat exchanger.
Fresh air blower hoses – smaller hoses for cabin ventilation.
Windshield washer hose – thin rubber line from reservoir to nozzles.

Suspension and Steering Bushings

Front suspension bushings – control arm bushings (two per side), sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushings.
Rear suspension bushings – trailing arm bushings, spring plate bushings.
Engine mount bushings – rubber inserts for the engine mounts (usually replaced with polyurethane for longevity).
Transmission mount bushing – rear crossmember bushing.

Fuel and Brake System Rubber

Fuel System

Fuel hoses – from tank to pump and from pump to carburetors. Use ethanol-rated rubber hose.
Fuel tank filler neck seal – rubber grommet where the filler tube enters the body.
Vapor vent hoses – small lines for the evaporation system.

Brake System

Brake hoses – flexible rubber lines from the chassis to each caliper (four hoses). Replace with DOT-approved rubber or braided stainless (with rubber core) for safety.
Master cylinder gasket – seal between master cylinder and brake booster.
Brake reservoir caps – rubber gasket inside the cap.

Electrical and Miscellaneous Rubber

Wiring grommets – rubber pass-throughs where wires enter the engine bay, interior, and trunk.
License plate light seal – small gasket behind the light unit.
Door switch grommets – for the interior light door jamb switches.

Sourcing and Quality Considerations

When purchasing a rubber kit or individual parts, focus on material composition. Many reproductions use EPDM rubber, which resists UV and ozone better than original natural rubber. Some high-end kits include silicone-based components for extreme longevity, though silicone can be less tear-resistant.

Always compare the hardness (durometer) of new parts to originals. Too soft and seals collapse; too hard and they don't compress enough. Professional suppliers often specify the Shore A hardness.

For early 911s, some rubber parts are unique to the 1968 model year (e.g., the transition from short to long hood bumpers). Confirm with the car's VIN and build date.

Installation Tips

Install new seals in warm weather or use a heat gun to soften stiffer seals for easier fitting.
Use a thin layer of rubber-friendly adhesive (e.g., 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive) on seals applied to painted surfaces.
Lubricate window channels with silicone spray to avoid tearing during glass installation.
For door seals, test fit before trimming: close the door on a strip of paper to check compression.
Replace all rubber hoses with fuel injection-grade hose for safety, even on carbureted engines.

Final Recommendation

For a complete rubber restoration of your 1968 Porsche 911 coupe, compile a list of all the parts mentioned above, then order them as a kit from a specialized Porsche parts supplier. Many offer “full rubber kits” that include the 50+ pieces needed for a full restoration. Ensure the kit covers the specific 1968 model year early 911 (often called the “SWB” or short wheelbase although 1968 was actually the first year of LWB—confirm with your chassis number).

Prioritize seals for the windshield, doors, and engine bay first, as they cause the most immediate issues. Replace bushings and suspension rubbers next to restore sharp handling. A thorough rubber refresh will keep your 911 coupe watertight, quiet, and driving as intended for years to come.