Suspension Parts Names for Honda Accord 93: A Complete Guide

Knowing the suspension parts names for a 1993 Honda Accord is essential whether you're restoring a classic, doing routine maintenance, or upgrading for better handling. The fourth-generation Accord (1990–1993) uses a familiar double-wishbone front and multi-link rear setup, but many parts are specific to that era. This guide covers every major suspension component, what it does, and what to look for when replacing.

Front Suspension Components

The front suspension on a 1993 Accord uses a double-wishbone design with MacPherson strut–like damping. Here are the key parts.

Struts and Shocks

Front struts combine the spring and shock absorber into one assembly. They control rebound and compression damping. Common replacements include OEM-style (KYB, Monroe) and performance options (Koni, Tokico). When buying, check if the strut comes with the spring (loaded) or without (you reuse your spring). For a 93 Accord, loaded struts save time.

Control Arms (Upper and Lower)

The front upper and lower control arms connect the steering knuckle to the frame. They house ball joints and bushings. On this Accord, the lower control arm is a common wear item; its rear bushing often fails. Aftermarket arms may come with new ball joints and bushings pre-installed.

Ball Joints

Ball joints allow the steering knuckle to pivot. The 93 Accord has upper and lower ball joints on each side. Press-in style requires a press for replacement. Many control arms now come with ball joints attached, simplifying the job.

Sway Bar and Links

The front sway bar (stabilizer bar) reduces body roll. It connects to the control arms via end links. The end links are small, cheap, and frequently fail (clunking over bumps). The sway bar bushings where the bar mounts to the frame also wear.

Tie Rod Ends

Tie rod ends connect the steering rack to the steering knuckle. Inner and outer tie rods exist. Outer tie rods are more visible and easier to replace. Worn tie rods cause loose steering and uneven tire wear. Always replace in pairs and get an alignment.

Rear Suspension Components

The rear uses a multi-link trailing arm setup with separate coil springs and shocks.

Shock Absorbers

Rear shocks are separate from springs. They mount to the lower control arm and the body. Replace in pairs. Standard or gas-charged shocks work; performance shocks improve handling.

Coil Springs

The rear springs sit between the lower arm and the body. They sag over time, lowering the car and reducing ride quality. Progressive-rate springs offer a good balance of comfort and control. Stock ride height springs are widely available.

Trailing Arms

The trailing arms locate the rear axle fore-aft. They have bushings at both ends. Worn trailing arm bushings cause rear-end steering feel and clunks.

Lateral Links (Panhard Rod)

One lateral link (or Panhard rod) connects the axle to the body, centering it. The bushings wear, causing axle shift. Adjustable lateral links allow for slight alignment correction.

Sway Bar

The rear sway bar (often thinner than the front) connects the lower control arms. End links and bushings can fail, causing rattles. Upgrading to a thicker bar reduces understeer.

Other Important Parts

Bushings

Bushings are rubber or polyurethane inserts that reduce vibration. Common worn bushings: lower control arm rear (front), trailing arm (rear), sway bar, and shock mounts. Polyurethane bushings last longer but increase road noise.

Strut Mounts and Bearings

Front strut mounts sit at the top of the strut assembly, containing a bearing that allows steering. If they squeak or bind, replace them with the struts. Rear shock mounts are simpler and cheaper.

Buying Guidance and Recommendations

OEM vs Aftermarket

OEM parts (Honda) are reliable but expensive. Aftermarket brands like Moog, Duralast, or Beck/Arnley offer good quality at lower prices. For performance, consider KYB, Koni, or Eibach. Avoid no-name cheap parts—they don't last.

Performance Upgrades Considerations

Lowering springs (Eibach Pro-Kit) improve handling but may require shorter shocks. Adjustable shocks (Koni Yellow) allow tuning. Upgraded sway bars reduce body roll. However, keep in mind the 93 Accord is not a sports car; prioritize ride quality.

Signs of Wear and When to Replace

• Clunking over bumps: bad end links, ball joints, or bushings.
• Excessive body roll: worn sway bars or weak springs.
• Bouncing after a bump: worn shocks/struts.
• Uneven tire wear: bad tie rods, ball joints, or alignment.
• Drifting or pulling: worn control arm bushings or ball joints.

Replace suspension parts in sets (left and right together). After replacing any component, get a professional alignment.

Final Recommendation

For a 1993 Honda Accord that hasn't had suspension work, a full front and rear suspension rebuild kit is the most cost-effective approach. These kits include struts/shocks, springs, control arms, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links, and all bushings. Brands like Detroit Axle and TRQ offer complete kits. If your budget is tight, prioritize front lower control arms, struts, and tie rods—they degrade fastest and affect safety. Always use quality parts to avoid doing the job twice. With the right parts and a weekend of work, your 93 Accord will ride and handle like new.