The Complete Guide to TR6 Suspension Parts

The Triumph TR6 is a classic sports car known for its timeless styling and lively handling. Over decades, its suspension components inevitably wear out, affecting ride quality and safety. Whether you're restoring a numbers-matching example or upgrading for spirited driving, choosing the right TR6 suspension parts is essential. This guide covers every key component, compares OEM replacements with performance upgrades, and helps you make informed decisions for your project.

Key Suspension Components for the Triumph TR6

The TR6 uses a front independent suspension with double wishbones and a rear live axle on semi-elliptic leaf springs. Understanding each part helps you prioritize replacements and upgrades.

Front Suspension Parts

• Upper and Lower Control Arms: The control arms locate the front wheels and pivot on bushings. Stock arms are stamped steel. Aftermarket tubular arms reduce weight and allow caster/camber adjustment. Worn bushings cause vague steering and clunking.
• Bushings: Original rubber bushings deteriorate with age. Polyurethane bushings stiffen the suspension, reducing deflection and improving steering response. Expect some increase in road noise.
• Ball Joints: These are wear items. Loose ball joints cause play in the front end. Replace with heavy-duty units if you plan aggressive driving.
• Coil Springs: Front springs sag over time, lowering ride height and altering geometry. Stock springs have a progressive rate. Aftermarket springs are available in various rates for a softer or firmer ride.
• Shock Absorbers: The TR6 uses lever-arm shocks (often called "lever dampers") from the factory. These are rebuildable but lack modern damping. Conversion kits to tube shocks provide better control and adjustability. Common options include Spax, Koni, and Monroe.
• Sway Bar (Anti-roll Bar): The front sway bar reduces body roll. Stock is 5/8-inch. Aftermarket bars up to 7/8-inch are available, but pairing with upgraded springs and shocks is necessary to maintain balance.

Rear Suspension Parts

• Trailing Arms: The rear axle is located by four trailing arms. Rubber bushings at both ends wear, causing axle tramp and vague handling. Polyurethane bushings or solid spherical bearings improve precision but increase harshness.
• Leaf Springs: Rear leaf springs support the axle and degrade over time. They lose arch, lowering the car and reducing load capacity. Aftermarket springs are available with standard or heavy-duty leaf counts.
• Shock Absorbers: Rear lever-arm shocks were standard. Tube shock conversions are popular, with remote reservoirs for high-performance use. Koni and Spax offer direct-fit replacements.
• Differential Mount: The differential is mounted to the chassis via rubber isolators. Worn mounts allow drivetrain movement and clunking. Polyurethane or solid mounts reduce play but transmit more vibration.
• Bump Stops: Often forgotten, but critical to prevent metal-on-metal contact. Replace when restoring suspension.

OEM vs. Aftermarket: Which TR6 Suspension Parts to Choose?

Your choice depends on your goals: authenticity, budget, or performance.

OEM-Style Parts for Authentic Restoration

If you're restoring a show-quality TR6, original-type components maintain concours correctness. Brands like Moss Motors, TRF (The Roadster Factory), and British Parts Northwest offer direct replacements that match factory specifications. OEM-style parts include rubber bushings, standard springs, and lever-arm shocks. These provide a comfortable ride but don't improve handling beyond original condition.

Performance Upgrades for Better Handling

For drivers who want sharper response and modern control, aftermarket upgrades are worthwhile.

• Polyurethane Bushings: Full bushing kits from SuperPro or Energy Suspension transform the car's feel. They reduce slop and maintain alignment under load, but they transfer more road noise.
• Tube Shock Conversion: Replacing lever-arm shocks with tube shocks from Spax, Koni, or Bilstein improves damping consistency. Adjustable shocks let you tune ride and handling.
• Uprated Springs and Sway Bars: Lowering springs (1-2 inch drop) lower the center of gravity and reduce body roll. Pair with a thicker sway bar (front) for a flatter cornering attitude.
• Adjustable Control Arms: Tubular upper control arms allow camber and caster adjustments for aggressive alignment settings.

Note: Mixing parts matters. Installing stiff springs with worn bushings will only highlight other weaknesses. Plan a comprehensive refresh.

Common Signs Your TR6 Suspension Needs Attention

• Clunking or Creaking Noises: Worn bushings, ball joints, or shock mounts.
• Excessive Body Roll: Car leans heavily in corners; worn sway bar links or bushings.
• Uneven Tire Wear: Cupping or scalloping indicates poor damping or misalignment.
• Bouncy Ride: Shocks are worn, allowing multiple oscillations.
• Steering Wander: Loose front end components cause vague direction.
• Rear Axle Tramp: Leaf spring bushings or trailing arm bushings are shot.

If you notice any of these, inspect the entire system. Replacing only one worn part often accelerates wear on adjacent parts.

Tips for Selecting Quality TR6 Suspension Parts

• Choose Reputable Brands: Stick with known names like Moss Motors, Goodparts, Spax, Koni, and SuperPro. Avoid generic off-brands that may have poor metallurgy or fitment.
• Match Spring Rates and Damping: If you change suspension components, ensure the shocks are valved for the spring rate. A mismatch leads to poor ride or bottoming.
• Consider Sealed vs. Greasable Bushings: Polyurethane bushings come in two types: sealed (press-in) and greasable (with zerk fittings). Greasable ones require maintenance but last longer.
• Check Hardware Quality: Replace all bolts, nuts, and washers with grade 8 or better. Many restoration kits include hardware; if not, source from a fastener supplier.
• Plan for Alignment: After suspension work, a professional alignment is mandatory. Adjustable components allow fine-tuning to factory specs or custom settings.

Final Recommendation: Balancing Authenticity and Performance

For most TR6 owners, a balanced approach works best. Replace all rubber bushings with polyurethane for improved precision without excessive harshness. Convert to tube shocks with adjustable damping — you can set them to soft for cruising and firm for canyon runs. Stock springs are fine for street use; upgrade only if you plan track days. If originality matters, keep the lever-arm shocks but rebuild them with new seals and fluid.

Prioritize safety parts first: ball joints, tie rod ends, and brake hoses (while you're there, flush the brake fluid). Then address bushings and shocks. A full suspension refresh transforms the TR6 from a nostalgic cruiser into a capable sports car. Invest in quality parts, take your time, and enjoy the improved driving experience.