The Complete Guide to Buying a Used Porsche 356 Crankshaft

Restoring a Porsche 356 is a labor of love, and finding the right used crankshaft can be one of the most critical parts of the engine rebuild. Whether you’re working on a 356A, 356B, or 356C, the crankshaft is the heart of the engine, and a worn or damaged one can ruin your project. This guide covers everything you need to know about buying a used Porsche 356 crankshaft: what to look for, where to find them, and how to avoid costly mistakes.

Understanding Porsche 356 Crankshafts

Types and Compatibility

The Porsche 356 was produced from 1948 to 1965 with several engine variations. The crankshafts differ by displacement and year:

• 356 (pre-A) and 356A (1950–1959): Early engines (1500cc, 1600cc) use a specific crankshaft with a 69.5mm stroke. These are often referred to as "normal" or "super" depending on the compression.
• 356B (1960–1963): Continued with 1600cc engines but introduced the "S" (Super) and "SC" (Super Competition) versions with higher compression and different crankshaft bearings.
• 356C (1964–1965): The 1600C and 1600SC engines used a crankshaft with revised oil passages and bearings.

Not all crankshafts are interchangeable. The main journal and rod journal sizes changed slightly, and the counterweight design evolved. Always confirm the specific engine code (e.g., 616/1, 616/2, 616/15) before purchasing a used crankshaft. A mismatch can lead to bearing failure or poor balance.

Signs of Wear and Damage

Before buying a used crankshaft, you must inspect it thoroughly. Look for these common issues:

• Crank thrust bearing wear: Check the thrust face for scoring or excessive end float. The thrust flange is critical for keeping the crankshaft in place.
• Rod journal scoring: Run your fingernail across the journal surfaces. If it catches, the journals are scored and need regrinding.
• Cracks: Inspect the fillet radius area (where the journal meets the web) with a magnifying glass or use dye penetrant. Cracks here are grounds for rejection.
• Keyway wear: The keyway for the flywheel and timing gear should be crisp; a worn keyway can cause timing issues.
• Straightness: A bent crankshaft will cause vibration. Roll it on a flat surface or use a dial indicator. Maximum runout should be less than 0.001 inch.

If the journals are worn but within limits (usually 0.001–0.002 inch taper), they can be reground to undersize. Many used crankshafts are available with standard journals, but you can also find ones already ground 0.010 or 0.020 undersize. Verify that matching bearings are available.

Sourcing a Used Porsche 356 Crankshaft

Reputable Suppliers

For a car like the 356, buying from specialized Porsche parts suppliers is safer than general eBay buys. Look for:

• Porsche 356 specialist dismantlers: Companies like Stoddard, Pelican Parts, and EASY (European Auto Supply) often have used engines and crankshafts. They typically inspect and warranty their parts.
• Porsche 356 clubs and forums: The 356 Registry, early911S Registry, and PCA (Porsche Club of America) have classifieds. Many enthusiasts sell spare parts.
• Swap meets and shows: Events like Hershey (Pennsylvania) or the Porsche Parade have vendors with used parts. You can inspect in person.

What to Ask the Seller

When contacting a seller, ask:

• Engine number and type: Confirm it matches your year/model.
• Condition: Has it been inspected? Is it standard or reground? Any cracks?
• Bearing sizes: If reground, what undersize? Are the bearings included?
• History: Is it from a running engine? Miles? Any known issues?
• Return policy: Most reputable sellers offer a 30-day return if the part is defective.

Avoid sellers who can’t provide clear answers or photos of the journals and thrust face.

Cost Considerations

Used Porsche 356 crankshafts vary in price:

• Core condition (needs regrind): $200–$400
• Good used (standard or lightly reground): $500–$900
• Like new or NOS: $1,000–$1,500

Prices depend on rarity. A 356SC crankshaft (with larger counterweights) often costs more than a normal or Super version. Factor in the cost of regrinding ($150–$300) and new bearings ($100–$200) if needed.

Inspecting and Refurbishing a Used Crankshaft

Professional Inspection

If you aren’t experienced, have a machine shop check the crankshaft before installing. They will:

• Check straightness and journal taper
• Test for cracks (Magnaglo or dye penetrant)
• Measure journal diameters and compare to specifications
• Check the thrust flange thickness

Regrinding vs. Replacement

If the journals are worn or scored, regrinding is common for 356 crankshafts. Bearings are available in standard and undersizes (0.010, 0.020, 0.030). However, if there’s a crack or severe damage, replacement is the only option. A reground crankshaft can be as reliable as new if done correctly.

Balancing

After regrinding, the crankshaft should be rebalanced. The 356 engine is sensitive to imbalance; a vibratory engine can damage bearings and cause oil leaks. A good machine shop can dynamically balance the crankshaft with the flywheel and clutch.

Final Recommendation

For most restorations, a used crankshaft from a reputable 356 specialist is a smart choice. Look for one from a low-mileage engine that hasn’t been overheated. Avoid buying sight unseen without detailed photos or a warranty. If your budget allows, have it inspected and reground before installation. This ensures reliability and avoids the risk of installing a damaged part that could ruin your engine.

If you need absolute peace of mind, new aftermarket crankshafts are available from companies like Dansk and KTL, but they cost $1,500–$2,500. For a concours restoration, original used parts often carry more value, but a properly reground original is just as good.

By following these guidelines, you can find a quality used Porsche 356 crankshaft that will keep your flat-four humming for years to come.